2006 Riesling Steeger St. Jost Grosses Gewächs
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Since Jochen Ratzenberger, Jr. took the reins at this estate four years ago, the wines have gained in both weight and stature. Protected by the Soon forest from the rainfall and rot that plagued the vineyards of many of his colleagues, Ratzenberger was able to assemble one of the finest collections of the 2007 vintage. That came at a price, though: he brought in only 40 hectoliters per hectare, or 35% less crop than normal. Made in his crisp, acidic style, though, all the wines show a refreshing clarity that highlights their mineral character. If 2007 pans out the way he believes it will, it may be the vintage that provides his breakthrough into the big leagues. (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ) Also recommended: 2006 Grauburgunder Trocken (85), 2006 Bacharacher Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2006 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86), 2006 Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Beerenauslese (89), 2006 Bacharacher Kloster Furstental Riesling Eiswein (89).