2005 Riesling Steeger St. Jost Grosses Gewächs

Although he had 30% less crop than in 2004, Jochen Ratzenberger is pleased that he was able to keep the botrytis in check this year, thus providing his 2005 collection with a clarity that few other estates could muster. The current collection displays this producer's crisp, almost steely acidic style, with all of these 2005s also showing a refreshingly spicy pungency that accentuates their mineral character. Surprisingly, the dry wines, which can be razor-sharp with acidity, were excellent this year, the spatlese nicely animated and the trockenbeerenauslese in a league of its own. This estate has now positioned itself just behind Florian Weingart and Matthias Muller and appears to have greater ambitions. (Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ) Also recommended: 2005 Steeger St. Jost Riesling Spatlese Trocken (86), 2005 Bacharacher Posten Riesling Spatlese Halbtrocken (86), 2005 Riesling Caspar C (86).