2004 Camartina
$150 (2017)
Italy
Greve in Chianti (Chianti Classico, Firenze)
Tuscany
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese (2020 vintage)
00
2004
2013 - 2022
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Querciabella is owned by entrepreneur Sebastiano Castiglioni, who acquired his passion for wine from his father Giuseppe. The property occupies a stupendous position in the hills above Greve in Chianti. The estate pursues biodynamic farming and low yields in its vineyards. Long-time oenologist Guido De Santi oversees a non-interventionalist approach in the cellar. The Querciabella wines represent the purest expression of fruit in a contemporary style that is all about elegance. The wines are approachable when young, but also have the capacity to gain complexity with cellaring. “Over the past few years we've really tried to find a stronger link to our region. It's been a gradual process of evolution,” says CEO Cesare Turini. The biggest change is a renewed focus on Sangiovese in the Chianti Classico along with a diminished use of international varietals. Sangiovese, which was once 80% of the blend, now represents 90% or more of the final blend in vintages 2004 and 2005. The fruit is being sourced from two of the estate's best Sangiovese plots which in the past had been used for Camartina and Palafreno. This new interpretation of the Chianti Classico means that overall production of Camartina has been reduced by about 40% while the Palafreno is now 100% Merlot. The estate has also been gradually making acquisitions, the most recent of which is a 14 hectare plot in Radda, near Montevertine. The estate's constant search for a higher level of quality exemplifies a level of ambition that I wish were more common in these parts. Readers who haven't tasted the Querciabella wines in a few vintages owe it to themselves to do so. This is a superb set of new releases.
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2020
2028 - 2041
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The biggest news at Querciabella this year is that the estate is finally releasing its collection of 100% Sangioveses now that Gran Seleziones can be labeled with their respective UGAs. I have followed those wines for over a decade, but these are the first releases that will make it into the market. Other than that, the house style remains unchanged. Winemaker Manfred Ing prizes freshness and vibrancy in wines that convey the essence of site. Querciabella is distinguished by an approach that deftly marries artisan spirit with a touch of sleekness.
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2019
2025 - 2039
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Readers will find plenty to admire in these wines from Querciabella. The 2021s and 2020s are both typical of their respective vintages. I find the 2021s especially intriguing because of their dynamic energy and textural finesse. It is a late-ripening vintage at Querciabella that yielded seriously impressive wines. The 2020s, on the other hand, are more linear in overall feel. “We did not even start picking Sangiovese until October. Our harvest was about two weeks later than in 2020,” winemaker Manfred Ing explained.
Querciabella continues to push the limits. Experiments with stem inclusion and submerged cap maceration have paid off handsomely here. The 2021 single-village Sangiovese are among the most compelling wines I have tasted here. Proprietor Sebastiano Castiglioni has made these wines for ten years but has not released a single bottle. Perhaps now that the new UGAs have been approved, Castiglioni might change his mind. A ten-year retrospective of those wines would be a pretty incredible tasting.
00
2018
2026 - 2038
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There are a ton of notable wines in this range from Querciabella. The Gran Seleziones are superb, while the Merlot Palafreno is off the charts in 2019. I am less enamored with the entry-level wines from Maremma, which, quite frankly, strike me as innocuous. As always, Manfred Ing crafts wines of notable purity, transparency and energy.
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2017
2025 - 2037
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2016
2024 - 2041
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Manfred Ing and his team at Querciabella presented a terrific set of wines. The move towards greater energy and vibrancy that started a handful of years ago is evident. It's hard to know where to start, as all of these wines are deserving of a mention. The Mongrana is a superb value, while at the top end, the 2016 Camartina really dazzles. But if I were going to start out with just one wine to explore the estate, it would be the Chianti Classico, a model of understatement and elegance.
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2015
2025 - 2040
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Readers can look forward to a positively stunning set of wines from Querciabella this year and in the near future. Winemaker Manfred Ing and his team continue to fine tune the approach here, but frankly, what comes through most is the tremendous passion behind everything at Querciabella. As for the wines themselves, the 2017s I have tasted so far are promising. It was not an easy year. Frost in May was especially damaging on the lower hillsides and wiped out as much as 60% of the crop in some spots. The 2016s benefit from a very even growing season. That effortless grace comes through in majestic, soaring wines that are likely to become benchmarks here. In 2015, canopy management and then gentle extractions in the winery were the key to getting most out of the fruit in a very warm vintage. Judging by the wines, it certainly looks like Ing and his team are making all the right moves.
00
2013
2023 - 2033
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This is a terrific set of wines from Querciabella and winemaker Manfred Ing. The flagship Camartina and Palafreno, both from the 2013 vintage are stellar. These days, I find almost as much pleasure in the Chianti Classico, a wine that delivers serious quality and pedigree for the money. I also had a chance to taste the 2016 and 2015 single-vineyard Sangioveses, wines that won’t be released for some time. The 2016s are of course very young, but they have tremendous color and aromatic intensity, while the 2015s exude density while also remaining faithful to their origins. Proprietor Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni deserves all the credit in the world for putting together the team to execute on his vision for making world-class wines that are aligned with his broader philosophical goals of sustainability. These wines are simply gorgeous. That’s all there is to it.
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2012
2020 - 2032
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This is another strong set of wines from Querciabella. Tasting through the 2013s, 2014s and 2015s, I am reminded of just how dramatically different the wines are today compared to just a few years ago, when international grapes, French oak and a generally more extracted style was in favor. Given the challenges of both 2013 and 2014, both late-ripening years, these are terrific wines. In 2014, Querciabella will release a small amount of Chianti Classico Riserva, but no single-vineyard wines. The 2015 single-vineyard wines I tasted from barrel point to a much stronger vintage. Incidentally, Querciabella has not yet released any of the single-vineyard Sangioveses I have reviewed previously, but it looks like the first of those wines will see the light of day in 2017.
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2011
2015 - 2026
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This is a fabulous set of wines from Querciabella. Even in a tricky vintage like 2012, Querciabella has come through with flying colors. The new 100% Sangiovese cru wines, which remain unnamed and unreleased, are special. Kudos to proprietor Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni for being the first Chianti Classico producer to make a concerted effort to showcase the personalities of specific sites. Sometimes it takes an outsider to fully realize the potential of a region, and in this regard - specifically the quest to explore and understand the uniqueness of various sites, and then to bottle wines from those vineyards so that we might understand their intrinsic qualities - Querciabella stands head and shoulders above any other estate in Chianti Classico. It's as simple as that.
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2010
2015 - 2025
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Querciabella is an estate in serious motion. Over the last few years, proprietor Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni has stepped up Querciabella's game, big time. The once super-international Chianti Classico Querciabella has completed its journey to a 100% Sangiovese with the 2010 vintage. Recently purchased vineyards in Radda and Gaiole, outside the estate's home base of Greve, have begun to yield the first wines in Querciabella's project to capture and express the qualities of Chianti Classico's villages through a series of highly distinctive Sangioveses. A vocal animal-rights activist and man of great culture, Castiglioni has spared no expense and overlooked no detail in his quest to make the best wines possible. For that, he and his team more than deserve the huge acclaim that is sure to start coming their way very soon. South African winemaker Manfred Ing's resume includes stints at Vineyard 29 in Napa Valley and Vietti in Piedmont. Ing describes 2010 as a vintage with pretty much normal berry size, while 2011 had smaller berries and smaller bunches, with higher skin-to-juice ratios. At times, the 2010s lack a little bit of depth, which is not surprising for the year. Because of the delicate nature of the fruit, Ing opted for gentle extractions, shorter fermentations and less time on the skins. Given the altitude at which most of Querciabella's Greve vineyards sit, the warmer conditions of 2011 were actually a positive, as the wines have that extra little bit of mid-palate pliancy that is not present in the 2010s. Over the last few years, Querciabella has also begun incorporating larger barrels and casks to complement the standard 225-liter French oak barrels. Today, the new single-village wines (which previously were used in the Camartina) are also single-vineyard wines, but that may not necessarily be the case going forward as the estate's holdings grow. At press time, Querciabella had not decided how the single-village Sangioveses will be labeled. If the new Gran Selezione regulations come into effect relatively soon (see the introduction to this article), it is likely they will be labeled Gran Selezione, otherwise, the wines will be sold as Chianti Classico.
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2008
2013 - 2023
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It's not exactly as though Querciabella needed to re-invent itself, the wines had been outstanding for years, but that is exactly what is happening at this historic estate in Greve. Full credit must go to proprietor Sebastiano Castilgioni for his vision, unwavering commitment to quality and hiring of Luca Currado from Vietti to oversee the project. Querciabella recently completed the acquisition of additional vineyards in Castellina, which now gives the estate land in three different villages within Chianti Classico. The new vines are part of project underway to make a series of single-vineyard Sangioveses of the estate's top vineyards. Within Querciabella itself, the flagship Camartina is increasingly a vehicle for Sangiovese, which frees up to Merlot for the Palafreno. It is truly impressive to see what Castilgioni and Currado have managed to achieve in just a few years, especially considering the last two vintages have not been among the most favorable.
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2007
2013 - 2022
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Querciabella has been on a roll over the last few years. I can't say enough good things about these wines, all of which merit your serious consideration. Querciabella doesn't make a big deal about the fact that their vineyards are now biodynamically farmed, but then again they don't have to(the wines speak for themselves.
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2007
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2006
2013 - 2021
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This is superb set of new releases from Querciabella, one of the leading lights in Tuscany.
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2005
2015 - 2030
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The 2005 growing season presented a full set of challenges at Querciabella. Because of the cold year, the winemaking team did a fair amount of deleafing and green harvesting to ripen the crop. The results of that work can clearly be seen in the Camartina, which is one of the better wines of the vintage.
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2005
2013 - 2020
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Querciabella occupies a stupendous position in the hills of Greve. With one notable exception, this is another set of strong releases from an estate that in recent years has made some of the most beautiful wines in its history.
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2003
2013 - 2018
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Querciabella is owned by entrepreneur Sebastiano Castiglioni, who acquired his passion for wine from his father Giuseppe. The property occupies a stupendous position in the hills above Greve in Chianti. The estate pursues biodynamic farming and low yields in its vineyards. Long-time oenologist Guido De Santi oversees a non-interventionalist approach in the cellar. The Querciabella wines represent the purest expression of fruit in a contemporary style that is all about elegance. The wines are approachable when young, but also have the capacity to gain complexity with cellaring. “Over the past few years we've really tried to find a stronger link to our region. It's been a gradual process of evolution,” says CEO Cesare Turini. The biggest change is a renewed focus on Sangiovese in the Chianti Classico along with a diminished use of international varietals. Sangiovese, which was once 80% of the blend, now represents 90% or more of the final blend in vintages 2004 and 2005. The fruit is being sourced from two of the estate's best Sangiovese plots which in the past had been used for Camartina and Palafreno. This new interpretation of the Chianti Classico means that overall production of Camartina has been reduced by about 40% while the Palafreno is now 100% Merlot. The estate has also been gradually making acquisitions, the most recent of which is a 14 hectare plot in Radda, near Montevertine. The estate's constant search for a higher level of quality exemplifies a level of ambition that I wish were more common in these parts. Readers who haven't tasted the Querciabella wines in a few vintages owe it to themselves to do so. This is a superb set of new releases.
00
1997
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00
1996
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