2017 Barolo Riserva Bussia Vigna Colonnello
$225 (2015)
Italy
Monforte D'alba
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo (2018 vintage)
00
2017
2024 - 2037
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Prunotto, owned by the Antinori family, has made some pretty serious moves of late, the most recent being a significant purchase in the Cerretta vineyard. The wines have long been very good, but I also find them a bit too open in the early going. In my view, fine-tuning of élevage, specifically with regards to time in wood and/or quality of wood is required for these wines to reach the next level, a level that should be attainable given the quality of the vineyards in the portfolio.
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2018
2024 - 2034
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Prunotto continues to make waves in Piedmont with the recent introduction of new wines that show increased commitment to the region. Just as importantly, the wines continue to move in the direction of refinement, something that is evident across this full range of Barolos and Barbarescos. Today’s wines are aromatic, translucent and polished. As good as the wines are today, I still think there is room for greater expression of place.
Like 2022, 2023 was also extremely warm, but there was more rain during the winter and also at several key moments throughout the year. Rain just prior to harvest was a challenge for some early-ripening varieties, but it is too soon to have a complete view of the vintage.
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2016
2022 - 2028
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Prunotto is another historic estate that shows signs of improvement. The wines are on the delicate side in 2018 but offer impeccable balance. Readers will note the introduction of a new Barolo from the Cerretta vineyard in Serralunga. There’s a good bit of potential here.
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2015
2025 - 2035
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Prunotto is another historic estate that is improving, which is always great to see, especially when it comes to important names that really should be making notable wines. The Barolos are done along fairly classic lines.
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2014
2024 - 2034
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2013
2020 - 2033
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2012
2018 - 2024
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2011
2017 - 2021
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Prunotto is in the midst of a fairly dramatic stylistic shift towards wines of greater restraint than in the past. Naturally, these things take time. The 2014 Barbarescos I tasted recently (which will be reviewed in a forthcoming article) suggest the estate is moving in a positive direction. The 2013 Barolos are clearly wines of transition.
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2010
2016 - 2018
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The Antinori family, so driven to success in virtually all of their wineries, for whatever reason struggles to find their footing in Piedmont. The 2012 Barolos are modest wines at best.
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2009
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Winemaker Gianluca Torrengo told me that Prunotto has been picking earlier since 2008 to preserve acidity and fruit, even if that means less alcohol.(This was far from the only place I heard this on my September tour.)He told me he finished harvesting on September 20 in both 2012 and 2011, thanks to early springs in each growing season.Torrengo noted that 2011 is higher in dry extract than 2010 for Prunotto, but that alcohol levels are similar, in the 13.5% to 13.7% range.The 2009s, he added, are higher in alcohol and lower in acidity.When I told Torrengo that the 2010 vintage appears to have been more consistently excellent in Barolo than in Barbaresco, he noted that the more clay-based soils in Barolo gave more tannins and structure than Barbaresco's soils did in 2010, and that the wines "seem bigger in the mouth" even if they have similar technical numbers. Also recommended:2012 Dolcetto d'Alba (86).
00
2008
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Winemaker Gianluca Torrengo told me that Prunotto has been picking earlier since 2008 to preserve acidity and fruit, even if that means less alcohol.(This was far from the only place I heard this on my September tour.)He told me he finished harvesting on September 20 in both 2012 and 2011, thanks to early springs in each growing season.Torrengo noted that 2011 is higher in dry extract than 2010 for Prunotto, but that alcohol levels are similar, in the 13.5% to 13.7% range.The 2009s, he added, are higher in alcohol and lower in acidity.When I told Torrengo that the 2010 vintage appears to have been more consistently excellent in Barolo than in Barbaresco, he noted that the more clay-based soils in Barolo gave more tannins and structure than Barbaresco's soils did in 2010, and that the wines "seem bigger in the mouth" even if they have similar technical numbers. Also recommended:2012 Dolcetto d'Alba (86).
00
2008
2016 - 2028
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The biggest news at Prunotto is the introduction of a new Barolo Riserva from the Colonnello vineyard in Monforte made with whole clusters. Prunotto experimented with whole clusters between 2004 and 2007, but only felt with the 2008 that the Riserva was ready to be released.
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