2018 Pontet-Canet
France
Pauillac Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2018
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“I can’t say I really understood the vintage. At the end of the day, I lost 2/3rds of the crop for my boss,” Technical Director Jean-Michel Comme told me with an understandably somber tone when I visited him at Pontet-Canet. Yields were just 11 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the 30-35 that are more typical. “The effects of mildew were just devastating. On July 14th we were fine, but that weekend was dramatic. By July 16, we had lost 30% of the Merlots,” Comme elaborated. “All of the grapes were whole cluster pressed. Because of the small crop, we were able to vinify the entire production in our new concrete tanks, using no electricity or electric power, just manual pumpovers. The 2018 is aging in 55% new oak and 45% terra cotta amphora, in other words more amphora than typical and no used oak.”
00
2024
2032 - 2044
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2023
2030 - 2048
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This is a stellar showing from the Tesseron family. Technical Director Mathieu Bessonnet was among the winemakers who spoke of the benefits of the August and September heat spikes in pushing maturity forward. All the fruit was picked by September 20, ahead of the rains that followed. Perhaps more importantly, blending earlier seems to have really helped the 2023 show well in several tastings. I was also thrilled to see Pontet Canet move to a much lighter bottle. Proprietor Alfred Tesseron has been one of the most outspoken supporters of sustainability in Bordeaux. Now, his new bottle aligns with that philosophy, something I would like to see other owners adopt.
00
2023
2028 - 2050
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Alfred and Justine Tesseron gave a quick tour of their winery, now equipped with specially designed egg-shaped oak vats that, apart from being innovative, do look quite astonishing. Plus, there are concrete vats cleverly submerged beneath the concrete winery floor. “We had quite a cold winter, and then we received 100mm of rain in March, so bud burst was early, mid-bud burst by April 8. It was quite a hot and dry vintage, with 60mm of rain in June. We had a bit of mildew on the leaves but not on the fruit. Mi-fleuraison was May 27, and the stems were longer than usual, an after-effect of the 2022 season. July and August were average in terms of the weather, mi-véraison around July 26, quite early. We had two heat waves between August 17 and 23 and another between September 7 to 11 that concentrated the berries, though we had to use some sun screen [an organic preparation applied to the vine]. We started picking very early on September 7, one day earlier than the previous year, the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot on September 20 and Cabernet Sauvignon eight days later, a crucial date as we felt it had not been ripe. They had forecasted up to 100mm of rain on September 10, but we took the risk and only received 25mm. We finished picking on October 10.”
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2022
2028 - 2042
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2022
2028 - 2050
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2022
2028 - 2042
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Things feel a little bit more controlled at Pontet-Canet these days. That’s not a bad thing. In the past, I felt the ‘that’s the wine the vintage gave us’ approach was a bit too loose at times. “We started to see above average temperatures in March,” Technical Director Matthieu Bessonnet told me. “There was a bit of frost in early April, and then a good bit of rain. Flowering took place in May. It was short and homogenous. We received 90mm of rain in June but avoided mildew pressure. Veraison was quite long. Bessonnet opted for ten small ferments, each started with a pied de cuve, whereas in the past, each of the 60 fermentation vats was allowed to follow its own path. The results are pretty striking at this stage.
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2021
2025 - 2050
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2021
2028 - 2041
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2021
2031 - 2046
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2021
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Since Alfred Tesseron was over in California, I met with his daughter Justine and winemaker Mathieu Bessonnet. “We did not have too much damage from the frost as we worked the soil 10 days in advance,” Bessonnet explained. “We only lost 100 buds. The cold affected the Merlot and flowered later than the Cabernet Sauvignon. We had poor flowering. Bunches were not compact, and this benefitted air circulation. June was terrible, and for the third year out of four we had a lot of mildew. The weather is so extreme these days, so we have to adapt, training staff to spray efficiently and reactively. Fifteen people are now trained to spray, and we can do the entire vineyard in 11 hours compared to 17 hours previously. We use copper and horsetail, wicker and 501 Preparation. We have stopped hedging and arch the vines, which makes them more resilient so that they can cope themselves. But the mildew is never the same, and we are trying to find the logic behind the mildew attack. In the end, we lost more from coulure and millerandage than mildew. The most important decision was to stop soil cultivation between mid-June until 20 July in order to not to give extra food to the vines and pump water from the soil. The harvest began on 24 September with the Merlot, the other varieties on 4 October and finished on 12 October. It was a stressful harvest because there was some rot, not enough to stop us sorting it out. We waited, if necessary, to obtain ripeness, even if there was a risk. The tannins and aromas came quickly during maceration, just working the cap every other day, working it less than we used to. Just a small pumping over at the beginning and then do what we call, au cocotte (hen) where we take the free-run juice of one vat to top up other vats and macerate in closed tanks. It means you don’t have to wet the skins, and it stops bacterial infection whilst macerating and polymerising the tannins. We aged the wine reductively to protect the fruit.”
00
2020
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2020
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2020
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2020
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2020
2027 - 2053
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2019
2024 - 2038
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2019
2029 - 2039
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2019
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2018
2028 - 2058
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2017
2025 - 2047
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2017
2022 - 2036
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2017
2021 - 2040
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Latour is one estate that is moving towards biodynamics, though it is Pontet-Canet that is synonymous with Steiner’s philosophy. It was the first to embrace biodynamics when its neighbors traduced it as a passing fad and it remains the most dedicated. It is a 365-day practice whether it is root, flower or leaf. As usual I met with winemaker Jean-Michel Comme on my two visits to the estate. “For those that were not hit by the frost, which was the case in Pauillac, the vintage was pretty easy,” he tells me. “We were only lightly hit, which means almost nothing. We made more wine than in 2016. It was sunny with low disease pressure and we stayed confident to the end. There was some rain but the grapes were not affected. There was no de-budding, de-leafing or green harvest. We had very little rot and we started the harvest on the afternoon of 18 September, picking plot by plot, following ripeness levels over 10 days, stopping and starting. There was a gap of four days at one point. There was no hurry. We started picking the Cabernet Sauvignon ten days after the Merlot, though it would have been sooner if the rot had attacked the Merlot. We kept the pickers here, de-leafing the vines to improve aeration just before harvest. The sanitary conditions were very good because the roots took up the water. We produced around 34-35hl/ha, the natural production of the vineyard.”
“This is the first vintage we have used the new vats for around one-third of the production [the remainder in concrete and wooden vats.] We extracted the gravel to make the frames of the new buildings but we decided to clean and wash them, divided them into different sizes of sediment and the smallest was used for the buildings, the medium for the production of the fermenters, the largest used for drainage in the vineyard. The shape is a 2nd century Roman amphora known as Dolium. They are reshaped in the same proportion, 1.61, which is known as the “nombre d’or”, the golden number. It is used in churches. There are 32 vats that are all 40hl/ha in size, which is very small considering the size of the estate. There is no more pumping over as everything is now punching down by hand. In fact, there is no electric power in the vat-room [Pontet-Canet has begun using geo-thermal heating and eventually the entire estate will be fuelled by natural underground heat.] The extraction allows the skins to do the work themselves, with little action in terms of heating and cooling. Only one vat had to be cooled because the heat is so gently expelled.”
Once you have digested all that information, it is clear that Alfred Tesseron, now assisted by his daughter Justine, is pioneering and others are following. That does not obviate criticism. In fact, honest feedback is crucial as an estate breaks new ground because at the end of the day, the only thing that matters is swishing around in the wine glass. Now, this was one estate whose unfinished wine transformed between my first visit in March to my second visit in April (amongst the melee of visitors queuing up in the vat-room). On my first visit the wine lacks a little depth and as I have remarked before, did not convey Pauillac typicité. However that trait was much more evident on the second visit: more linearity, substance, a touch more backbone and reserve on the finish. Ah, now that was the Pontet-Canet I recognize. My tasting note in this report comes from the second visit, as I believe it to be more indicative of the direction it is heading.
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2017
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2015
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Alfred Tesseron made big waves last year when he announced his purchase of the late Robin Williams’s estate in Napa Valley. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Tesseron and his winemaker Jean-Michel Comme do on Mount Veeder. As for the 2015 Pontet-Canet, it is fabulous.
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2015
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Alfred Tesseron made big waves earlier this year when he announced his purchase of the late Robin Williams’s estate in Napa Valley. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what Tesseron and his winemaker Jean-Michel Comme do on Mount Veeder. As for the 2015 Pontet-Canet, it is fabulous.
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2014
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Alfred Tesseron and his team led by Technical Director Jean-Michel Comme have made one of the truly exceptional wines of the 2014 vintage. Over the last decade or so, Tesseron has completely revolutionized Pontet-Canet, which has now been farmed biodynamically for a full decade, an approach that is quite rare in Bordeaux. From the window, I can see a horse-driven plow at work, its operator talking on his mobile phone. "The intersection of the old and the new," quips Tesseron. "I have pretty much handed off the daily management of winemaking to my team," concludes Tesseron "but I found the 2014 so delicious that in the end I did not miss a single day tasting through every tank."
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2013
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According to proprietor Alfred Tesseron, biodynamic farming was a help in 2013, as the vineyards ripened earlier, before the weather was at its most challenging. Yields are down a whopping 50%, mostly the result of coulure and millerandage. Pontet-Canet is one of the few Bordeaux properties that works with indigenous rather than commercial yeasts.
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2012
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2009
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2009
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Owner Alfred Tesseron was so happy with the 2009 grapes and the wine he made that he told me he didn't think he really even needed to make a second wine at all this year. "We ended up declassifying about 20% of the total, but in reality I think I could have bottled it all as Pontet-Canet, it was just that good," he told me. I'm not so sure the end result is up to the level of his enthusiasm, and I would point out that yields here were also higher in '09 than they were in '08.
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2008
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2008
2018 - 2035
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There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way on my first day. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
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2008
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2008
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2007
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2007
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According to Alfred Tesseron, there were three generations of grapes during the drawn-out flowering, and after all the mildew problems of the summer and the elimination of fruit in early July there was still a huge range of ripeness on August 20. So he hired a team to cut off all the pale grapes, ultimately producing just 28 hectoliters per hectare. "You can't look at the economics on a year-to-year basis," he said, explaining his willingness to spend so much to make so little wine. "In the end, we had almost the same sugars in our cabernet sauvignon as in our merlot." Not surprisingly, the resulting wine is an outperformer for the vintage, once again. This was one of the few 2007s that really struck me with its pungent minerality. Bio brings minerality," said estate manager Jean-Michel Comme.
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2006
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2006
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Consumers who have been buying Pontet-Canet in recent years know that this superb chateau has been making wines of first-growth concentration and class. The 2006 is no exception, although it was a retaste of the 2005 in early April that had me speaking in tongues. Proprietor Alfred Tesseron told me he believes the team did a very good job harvesting in 2006, using small 7.5-kilo cagettes and taking its time: the harvest extended from September 19 until October 9. Ultimately, production was just 35 hectoliters per hectare of wine, the same amount as in 2005. The 2006 is actually higher in merlot than either 2005 or 2004, as Tesseron was happy with the quality of the 2006 merlot on his gravelly clay and limestone soils.
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2005
2025 - 2045
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2005
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According to Alfred Tesseron, there were three generations of grapes during the drawn-out flowering, and after all the mildew problems of the summer and the elimination of fruit in early July there was still a huge range of ripeness on August 20. So he hired a team to cut off all the pale grapes, ultimately producing just 28 hectoliters per hectare. "You can't look at the economics on a year-to-year basis," he said, explaining his willingness to spend so much to make so little wine. "In the end, we had almost the same sugars in our cabernet sauvignon as in our merlot." Not surprisingly, the resulting wine is an outperformer for the vintage, once again. This was one of the few 2007s that really struck me with its pungent minerality. Bio brings minerality," said estate manager Jean-Michel Comme.
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2005
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Consumers who have been buying Pontet-Canet in recent years know that this superb chateau has been making wines of first-growth concentration and class. The 2006 is no exception, although it was a retaste of the 2005 in early April that had me speaking in tongues. Proprietor Alfred Tesseron told me he believes the team did a very good job harvesting in 2006, using small 7.5-kilo cagettes and taking its time: the harvest extended from September 19 until October 9. Ultimately, production was just 35 hectoliters per hectare of wine, the same amount as in 2005. The 2006 is actually higher in merlot than either 2005 or 2004, as Tesseron was happy with the quality of the 2006 merlot on his gravelly clay and limestone soils.
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2005
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A decade's worth of steady improvement and increasing attention to detail at Pontet-Canet has culminated in the estate's greatest wine in recent memory, from what proprietor Alfred Tesseron described as "a very slow harvest" and a crop level of just 35 hectoliters per hectare. With the 2005 vintage, said Tesseron, Pontet-Canet purchased a number of 80-hectoliter concrete fermenters. Small lots of juice can go into the tanks without being pumped, and the squat shape of the tanks facilitates pigeage Since 1999, more than half of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has taken place in barriques
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2004
2024 - 2040
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2004
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Consumers who have been buying Pontet-Canet in recent years know that this superb chateau has been making wines of first-growth concentration and class. The 2006 is no exception, although it was a retaste of the 2005 in early April that had me speaking in tongues. Proprietor Alfred Tesseron told me he believes the team did a very good job harvesting in 2006, using small 7.5-kilo cagettes and taking its time: the harvest extended from September 19 until October 9. Ultimately, production was just 35 hectoliters per hectare of wine, the same amount as in 2005. The 2006 is actually higher in merlot than either 2005 or 2004, as Tesseron was happy with the quality of the 2006 merlot on his gravelly clay and limestone soils.
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2004
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A decade's worth of steady improvement and increasing attention to detail at Pontet-Canet has culminated in the estate's greatest wine in recent memory, from what proprietor Alfred Tesseron described as "a very slow harvest" and a crop level of just 35 hectoliters per hectare. With the 2005 vintage, said Tesseron, Pontet-Canet purchased a number of 80-hectoliter concrete fermenters. Small lots of juice can go into the tanks without being pumped, and the squat shape of the tanks facilitates pigeage Since 1999, more than half of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has taken place in barriques
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2004
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"In late July we realized there were too many grapes, so we did a second green harvest," said Alfred Tesseron. "Then we did yet another pass through the vines after the summer vacation to drop grapes that were less ripe." No mineral fertilizers are used here, the roots of the vines have been forced deeper into the soil, and the lower vine vigor has brought about lower pHs. The yield was 47 hectoliters per hectare in 2004, following three harvests with crop levels under 40 hectoliters per hectare. The result of Pontet-Canet's work in the vines was gloriously ripe cabernet, and the young 2004 is a wine of first growth quality.
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2003
2023 - 2040
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2003
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A decade's worth of steady improvement and increasing attention to detail at Pontet-Canet has culminated in the estate's greatest wine in recent memory, from what proprietor Alfred Tesseron described as "a very slow harvest" and a crop level of just 35 hectoliters per hectare. With the 2005 vintage, said Tesseron, Pontet-Canet purchased a number of 80-hectoliter concrete fermenters. Small lots of juice can go into the tanks without being pumped, and the squat shape of the tanks facilitates pigeage Since 1999, more than half of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has taken place in barriques
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2003
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"In late July we realized there were too many grapes, so we did a second green harvest," said Alfred Tesseron. "Then we did yet another pass through the vines after the summer vacation to drop grapes that were less ripe." No mineral fertilizers are used here, the roots of the vines have been forced deeper into the soil, and the lower vine vigor has brought about lower pHs. The yield was 47 hectoliters per hectare in 2004, following three harvests with crop levels under 40 hectoliters per hectare. The result of Pontet-Canet's work in the vines was gloriously ripe cabernet, and the young 2004 is a wine of first growth quality.
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2003
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"In my 25 years here, 2003 is my best vintage," announced Alfred Tesseron at the end of March. "Even the merlot had class." Having old vines and deep roots was critical in 2003, he added. "At properties that use weedkillers, the roots are not used to going down deep to look for water, and these vines struggled in 2003," said Tesseron. Yields at Pontet-Canet have been in the 38 to 40 hectoliters-per-hectare range for the past three years. Neither chaptalization nor concentration of the musts were required in either 2002 or 2003, he added.
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2002
2022 - 2034
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2002
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"In late July we realized there were too many grapes, so we did a second green harvest," said Alfred Tesseron. "Then we did yet another pass through the vines after the summer vacation to drop grapes that were less ripe." No mineral fertilizers are used here, the roots of the vines have been forced deeper into the soil, and the lower vine vigor has brought about lower pHs. The yield was 47 hectoliters per hectare in 2004, following three harvests with crop levels under 40 hectoliters per hectare. The result of Pontet-Canet's work in the vines was gloriously ripe cabernet, and the young 2004 is a wine of first growth quality.
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2002
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"In my 25 years here, 2003 is my best vintage," announced Alfred Tesseron at the end of March. "Even the merlot had class." Having old vines and deep roots was critical in 2003, he added. "At properties that use weedkillers, the roots are not used to going down deep to look for water, and these vines struggled in 2003," said Tesseron. Yields at Pontet-Canet have been in the 38 to 40 hectoliters-per-hectare range for the past three years. Neither chaptalization nor concentration of the musts were required in either 2002 or 2003, he added.
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2002
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Alfred Tesseron was the first of a number of chateau proprietors to note that, thanks to the riper cabernet, the 2002 Pontet-Canet was actually showing better in early tastings than the 2001 did a year ago. His comments certainly tracked my own impressions, as it was clear in early April that I underrated the 2001 last spring.
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2001
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"In my 25 years here, 2003 is my best vintage," announced Alfred Tesseron at the end of March. "Even the merlot had class." Having old vines and deep roots was critical in 2003, he added. "At properties that use weedkillers, the roots are not used to going down deep to look for water, and these vines struggled in 2003," said Tesseron. Yields at Pontet-Canet have been in the 38 to 40 hectoliters-per-hectare range for the past three years. Neither chaptalization nor concentration of the musts were required in either 2002 or 2003, he added.
00
2001
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Alfred Tesseron was the first of a number of chateau proprietors to note that, thanks to the riper cabernet, the 2002 Pontet-Canet was actually showing better in early tastings than the 2001 did a year ago. His comments certainly tracked my own impressions, as it was clear in early April that I underrated the 2001 last spring.
00
2001
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The substantial work done in the vines here in recent years has been aimed at providing "the best possible microclimate for each bunch," says Alfred Tesseron. "We're more concerned with reorganizing the position of each bunch than we are with how many grapes there are per vine. And we really need to work to get thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon with a high enough pH. As we improve the quality of the cabernet each year, we're getting softer tannins, so we find that we need less merlot in the blend." The chateau uses low-vigor rootstocks; grass is planted between the rows to further reduce vigor and no fertilizers have been used in the past two years. The estate practices strict pruning and also carries out a green harvest; leaf-pulling is done on both sides of the vines, beginning as early as possible. In 2001, notes Tesseron, the Pontet-Canet team did 4,000 more hours of work in the vines than it carried out even two years earlier. Not surprisingly, all these crop-reduction techniques produced a yield of just 37 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, down from 50 in 2000.
00
2000
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Alfred Tesseron was the first of a number of chateau proprietors to note that, thanks to the riper cabernet, the 2002 Pontet-Canet was actually showing better in early tastings than the 2001 did a year ago. His comments certainly tracked my own impressions, as it was clear in early April that I underrated the 2001 last spring.
00
2000
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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The substantial work done in the vines here in recent years has been aimed at providing "the best possible microclimate for each bunch," says Alfred Tesseron. "We're more concerned with reorganizing the position of each bunch than we are with how many grapes there are per vine. And we really need to work to get thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon with a high enough pH. As we improve the quality of the cabernet each year, we're getting softer tannins, so we find that we need less merlot in the blend." The chateau uses low-vigor rootstocks; grass is planted between the rows to further reduce vigor and no fertilizers have been used in the past two years. The estate practices strict pruning and also carries out a green harvest; leaf-pulling is done on both sides of the vines, beginning as early as possible. In 2001, notes Tesseron, the Pontet-Canet team did 4,000 more hours of work in the vines than it carried out even two years earlier. Not surprisingly, all these crop-reduction techniques produced a yield of just 37 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, down from 50 in 2000.
00
2000
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As at Lafon-Rochet, also owned by the Tesseron family, a growing percentage of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has been done in barriques the last couple of years. Alfred Tesseron is convinced that this approach results in nobler tannins and a better integration of the wine flavors and oak component. Numerous improvements were made in the vineyards during the 2000 growing season, said technical director Jean-Michel Comme, all with the objective of aerating and getting more sun on the grapes. Green pruning in April was designed to suppress some canes and facilitate better exposure of the fruit. Then in early July, the estate thinned leaves on both sides of the vines in an attempt to improve the quality of the tannins. In late July, the process of dropping crop began, with the objective of having no clusters touching each other. The result may well be the estate's best wine to date.
00
1999
2019 - 2030
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00
1999
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The substantial work done in the vines here in recent years has been aimed at providing "the best possible microclimate for each bunch," says Alfred Tesseron. "We're more concerned with reorganizing the position of each bunch than we are with how many grapes there are per vine. And we really need to work to get thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon with a high enough pH. As we improve the quality of the cabernet each year, we're getting softer tannins, so we find that we need less merlot in the blend." The chateau uses low-vigor rootstocks; grass is planted between the rows to further reduce vigor and no fertilizers have been used in the past two years. The estate practices strict pruning and also carries out a green harvest; leaf-pulling is done on both sides of the vines, beginning as early as possible. In 2001, notes Tesseron, the Pontet-Canet team did 4,000 more hours of work in the vines than it carried out even two years earlier. Not surprisingly, all these crop-reduction techniques produced a yield of just 37 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, down from 50 in 2000.
00
1999
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As at Lafon-Rochet, also owned by the Tesseron family, a growing percentage of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has been done in barriques the last couple of years. Alfred Tesseron is convinced that this approach results in nobler tannins and a better integration of the wine flavors and oak component. Numerous improvements were made in the vineyards during the 2000 growing season, said technical director Jean-Michel Comme, all with the objective of aerating and getting more sun on the grapes. Green pruning in April was designed to suppress some canes and facilitate better exposure of the fruit. Then in early July, the estate thinned leaves on both sides of the vines in an attempt to improve the quality of the tannins. In late July, the process of dropping crop began, with the objective of having no clusters touching each other. The result may well be the estate's best wine to date.
00
1999
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Among the recent improvements here are the introduction of smaller cagettes [baskets that only hold about 30 pounds of grapes] for bringing in the harvest. By only half-filling these crates, says proprietor Alfred Tesseron, "we can see all the grapes when they are dumped onto our triage tables, and only healthy grapes are kept." Tesseron pulled leaves on both sides of his merlot vines in search of faster ripening in '99, though he noted that the sugars were too high for the level of polyphenols two weeks before the harvest. Partly for this reason, he describes '99 as a year favoring the later-harvested cabernet sauvignon, while '98 was a merlot year. Pontet-Canet carried out a softer extraction in '99. "The extracted, overworked wines in '99 tend to finish hard," Tesseron observed.
00
1998
2018 - 2032
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00
1998
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As at Lafon-Rochet, also owned by the Tesseron family, a growing percentage of the malolactic fermentation at Pontet-Canet has been done in barriques the last couple of years. Alfred Tesseron is convinced that this approach results in nobler tannins and a better integration of the wine flavors and oak component. Numerous improvements were made in the vineyards during the 2000 growing season, said technical director Jean-Michel Comme, all with the objective of aerating and getting more sun on the grapes. Green pruning in April was designed to suppress some canes and facilitate better exposure of the fruit. Then in early July, the estate thinned leaves on both sides of the vines in an attempt to improve the quality of the tannins. In late July, the process of dropping crop began, with the objective of having no clusters touching each other. The result may well be the estate's best wine to date.
00
1998
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Among the recent improvements here are the introduction of smaller cagettes [baskets that only hold about 30 pounds of grapes] for bringing in the harvest. By only half-filling these crates, says proprietor Alfred Tesseron, "we can see all the grapes when they are dumped onto our triage tables, and only healthy grapes are kept." Tesseron pulled leaves on both sides of his merlot vines in search of faster ripening in '99, though he noted that the sugars were too high for the level of polyphenols two weeks before the harvest. Partly for this reason, he describes '99 as a year favoring the later-harvested cabernet sauvignon, while '98 was a merlot year. Pontet-Canet carried out a softer extraction in '99. "The extracted, overworked wines in '99 tend to finish hard," Tesseron observed.
00
1998
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Here, too, the 1998 features an atypically high percentage of merlot (50%, vs. only 28% planted in the vineyards), but that largely because the old cabernet vines yielded so little, said Michel Tesseron. Overall, the crop level was five hectoliters per hectare less in '98 than in '97, and the wine represents a 50% selection. Renovations here in recent years have focused on improving rootstocks, and on matching the cepage to the closely defined site.
00
1997
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Among the recent improvements here are the introduction of smaller cagettes [baskets that only hold about 30 pounds of grapes] for bringing in the harvest. By only half-filling these crates, says proprietor Alfred Tesseron, "we can see all the grapes when they are dumped onto our triage tables, and only healthy grapes are kept." Tesseron pulled leaves on both sides of his merlot vines in search of faster ripening in '99, though he noted that the sugars were too high for the level of polyphenols two weeks before the harvest. Partly for this reason, he describes '99 as a year favoring the later-harvested cabernet sauvignon, while '98 was a merlot year. Pontet-Canet carried out a softer extraction in '99. "The extracted, overworked wines in '99 tend to finish hard," Tesseron observed.
00
1997
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Here, too, the 1998 features an atypically high percentage of merlot (50%, vs. only 28% planted in the vineyards), but that largely because the old cabernet vines yielded so little, said Michel Tesseron. Overall, the crop level was five hectoliters per hectare less in '98 than in '97, and the wine represents a 50% selection. Renovations here in recent years have focused on improving rootstocks, and on matching the cepage to the closely defined site.
00
1997
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The Tesseron family, who also own Lafon-Rochet, took a host of measures to ensure the strongest possible raw materials in 1997, including a green harvest and substantial dropping of crop in August. The Pontet-Canet features the strictest selection to date, with only 36% of the estate production going into the grand vin "At today's prices," notes Alfred Tesseron, "we can't offer something that isn't special." The Tesserons went for a lighter extraction, doing shorter remontages and avoiding breaking the cap. "We did not go for a vin de garde," explained Tesseron. "But I believe our '97s will keep well, especially the Pontet-Canet." Tesseron describes both '96 and '95 as atypically powerful wines; the fruitier, more elegant '97s, he says, are more Bordeaux in style.
00
1996
2020 - 2032
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Overall, I can understand exactly why Elystan Street has become a popular haunt for Chelsea residents.
00
1996
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Here, too, the 1998 features an atypically high percentage of merlot (50%, vs. only 28% planted in the vineyards), but that largely because the old cabernet vines yielded so little, said Michel Tesseron. Overall, the crop level was five hectoliters per hectare less in '98 than in '97, and the wine represents a 50% selection. Renovations here in recent years have focused on improving rootstocks, and on matching the cepage to the closely defined site.
00
1996
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
The Tesseron family, who also own Lafon-Rochet, took a host of measures to ensure the strongest possible raw materials in 1997, including a green harvest and substantial dropping of crop in August. The Pontet-Canet features the strictest selection to date, with only 36% of the estate production going into the grand vin "At today's prices," notes Alfred Tesseron, "we can't offer something that isn't special." The Tesserons went for a lighter extraction, doing shorter remontages and avoiding breaking the cap. "We did not go for a vin de garde," explained Tesseron. "But I believe our '97s will keep well, especially the Pontet-Canet." Tesseron describes both '96 and '95 as atypically powerful wines; the fruitier, more elegant '97s, he says, are more Bordeaux in style.
00
1995
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The Tesseron family, who also own Lafon-Rochet, took a host of measures to ensure the strongest possible raw materials in 1997, including a green harvest and substantial dropping of crop in August. The Pontet-Canet features the strictest selection to date, with only 36% of the estate production going into the grand vin "At today's prices," notes Alfred Tesseron, "we can't offer something that isn't special." The Tesserons went for a lighter extraction, doing shorter remontages and avoiding breaking the cap. "We did not go for a vin de garde," explained Tesseron. "But I believe our '97s will keep well, especially the Pontet-Canet." Tesseron describes both '96 and '95 as atypically powerful wines; the fruitier, more elegant '97s, he says, are more Bordeaux in style.
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