1997 Il Carbonaione

I was deeply impressed with the Poggio Scalette wines this year. The estate has had some ups and downs of late. These wines are a poignant reminder of what is possible here when everything works.

These new releases from Poggio Scalette aren’t of the level that has been customary here in the past.

I have to admit, this is perplexing set of wines from Poggio Scalette. Even the flagship Carbonaione is not up to its customary level of quality. It is hard, if not impossible, to know exactly why the wines are so disappointing, but I certainly hope it is something that can be addressed sooner rather than later.

These are three gorgeous wines from Poggio Scalette and Jurij Fiore. Il Carbonaione has long been the flagship, but in 2015 all three top selections are compelling. But if I had to choose one, it would be the 100% Sangiovese, which remains one of the most intriguing wines in all of Italy, especially once it has had a few years in bottle.

Jurji Fiore made a spectacular Carbonaione in 2014. Despite its superb track record for aging and pedigree, Carbonaione, Poggio Scalette’s old-vine Sangiovese, remains one of the great under the radar wines in Tuscany. At the other end of the spectrum, the 2015 Chianti Classico offers superb quality and value. Poggio Scalette fans will want to take note of the new wines Jurji Fiore is making with his daughter, Sara, under their Jurji Fiore & Figlia label, reviewed separately in this article.

Vittorio and Jurij Fiore make a number of terrific wines at their Poggio Scalette property in Greve. Il Carbonaione, the estate's 100% Sangiovese, remains the flagship. At times, Il Carbonaione can be hard to understand in its youth because it is so intensely fruity and primary, but it is a wine of exceptional pedigree that also happens to age very well. Also tasted: 2015 Chiara Auroda.

Once again, Il Carbonaione is the highlight among these new releases from Vittorio and Jurij Fiore at Poggio Scalette. This small, family owned property is located in Lamole, next to Querciabella, a sector in Greve where Sangiovese often shows darker, bluish tints to its fruit. Poggio Scalette's Chianti Classico is solid, while the Bordeaux-blend Capogatto is tasty, but Il Carbonaione is the unquestioned thoroughbred in this range. In particular, I have always been impressed with the pedigree Il Carbonaione shows with bottle age, something that is less apparent when the wine is young because the primary fruit is so intense.

Il Carbonaione is the highlight among these new releases from Poggio Scalette, one of Tuscany's most under the radar estates. Father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore craft rich, resonant wines built on pure texture. In recent years, the Chianti Classico has been a terrific entry-level offering, as it is once again in 2012.

This is a breathtaking set of wines from Poggio Scalette, a small, family-run estate with pristine vineyards in the hills of Greve. Father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore have done a fabulous job with these new releases. For more on Poggio Scalette, readers may want to take a look at this short video.

The Poggio Scalette wines aren't always easy to find, but they are well worth the effort. This is another strong set of new releases from father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. In particular, I was impressed with the Chianti Classico, which shows tons of character and personality at a very fair price.

These are two solid efforts from Poggio Scalette, one of Tuscany's under the radar, artisan estates.

Vittorio and Jurij Fiore make some of the most compelling wines in Tuscany from their pristine vineyards in the hills above Greve. Their 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione is one of the great undiscovered treasures in the world of wine.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Proprietors Vittorio and Jurij Fiore craft one of Tuscany's most unique wines from their vineyards high in the hills of Greve. Il Carbonaione is 100% old-vine Sangiovese made from the prized Lamole clone, a rare and prized mutation of Sangiovese found only in this part of Greve. The Fiores give Il Carbonaione roughly one year in 350 liter oak barrels (50% new), of which 90% is French and 10% American. Il Carbonaione is one of the most age-worthy wines in Tuscany, and has a track record of developing beautifully in bottle. It remains one of the best relative values in fine, ageworthy wine. My notes from a vertical going back to the first vintage, 1992, can be found on www.erobertparker.com.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Father and son team Jurij and Vittorio Fiore make wines of much distinction at their small winery. The property is located in the hills of Greve, right next to neighbors Querciabella. Their top wine is Il Carbonaione, a 100% Sangiovese (from the Lamole clone) aged predominantly in small French oak barrels which has a track record of aging very well, even in smaller vintages. A forthcoming article on this site will explore past vintages of Il Carbonaione in more detail.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Father and son team Jurij and Vittorio Fiore make wines of much distinction at their small winery. The property is located in the hills of Greve, right next to neighbors Querciabella. Their top wine is Il Carbonaione, a 100% Sangiovese (from the Lamole clone) aged predominantly in small French oak barrels which has a track record of aging very well, even in smaller vintages. A forthcoming article on this site will explore past vintages of Il Carbonaione in more detail.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.

Poggio Scalette is a tiny, family-run property located in the hills of Greve right next to neighbors Querciabella. The estate is run by father and son team Vittorio and Jurij Fiore. Vittorio is most well-known as consulting oenologist for a number of top wineries, including Costanti and Il Carnasciale, while Jurij oversees day to day work at Poggio Scalette itself. The hillside vineyards are located at about 500 meters in altitude, which is ideal for making elegant, finessed wines that are capable of aging. Although some vineyards have been planted recently, the majority of the vines are about 70 years old. Space in the cellar is tight, to say the least. Winemaking facilities are as bare-bones and strictly functional as they come.

Poggio Scalette’s top wine is the 100% Sangiovese Il Carbonaione, a wine with a distinguished track record made all the more notable considering how gracefully the less important vintages have aged. I recently had a chance to sit down with Vittorio and Jurij Fiore to taste through an extensive selection of vintages going back to the inaugural 1992 and I came away very impressed. Readers lucky enough to have well-stored bottles from forgotten vintages such as 1992 and 1994 are in for a treat. Though not inexpensive, Il Carbonaione remains a very fairly-priced wine in today’s market considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Poggio Scalette also makes a small amount of Chianti Classico which is sold in bulk as well as a 100% Merlot, Piantonaia.

Il Carbonaione is made from an ancient clone of Sangiovese known as Lamole which is unique to these hills. The wine is fermented in open-top steel tanks after which it undergoes malolactic fermentation in steel, a decision that is mostly dictated by a lack of space. Vintages 2002-2004 did see malo in oak, but after having tasted through this series of wines it doesn’t appear that the decision of steel versus oak for the malos is a factor that makes a critical difference in quality. The wine spends about 17 months in 350-liter oak barrels (50% new), of which roughly 90% are French oak and 10% American oak.