2008 Barolo Romirasco
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2018 - 2028
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My tasting at Aldo Conterno was one of the highlights of my recent trip to Piemonte. The 2008s are super-classic wines that will thrill Barolo lovers. The harvest took place at the end of October, quite late by modern-day standards. The Conterno brothers continue to lengthen macerations. In 2008 the Granbussia saw 40-45 days of skin contact, the longest ever. Speaking of Granbussia, Conterno has cut production on their flagship wine by a whopping two-thirds in order to bottle only the best juice under their top label. This also frees up juice for the Romirasco bottling, which is now a permanent part of the lineup, rather than a wine that is only made when there is no Granbussia, which was the case until just a few years ago. The unexpected success of the Romirasco bottling is one of the many positive things that have taken place at Aldo Conterno recently. The Conterno family embodies so many of the human values that make Piemonte such a special place. It's great to see them back at the top of their game.
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"The 2008 Barolos are saline and long, but they're not powerhouses," noted Giacomo Conterno. "They're less rich and powerful than 2009 and 2007 but elegant and fine." The Conternos found the '08s to be rather delicate and thus bottled them without filtration for the first time, as they didn't want to subject them to undue stress. They also did longer skin contact with the '08s, 40 to 45 days for the Colonello and Cicala and 55 for the Romirasco. Since 2004 the Conternos have been thinning their vines in June, after the flowering, "to capture all the micro-elements in the soil," according to Giacomo. "We really can't afford to wait until August." Yields for their crus are now in the low 35-hectoliters-per-hectare range, vs. about 50 in the late '90s. Conterno is already very high on 2009, which he describes as "classic but rich, similar to 2001, with a lot of everything, including alcohol and acidity." The 2007s, with alcohol in the 15% range, have the sweetness of the 2004s, he went on. "They're charmers; everyone likes them."
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