2015 Il Caberlot (Magnum)

The Rogosky family has made compelling wines at Il Carnasciale pretty much since the beginning, but the flagship Caberlot is truly sensational in 2016. Il Carnasicale’s unique Cabernet Franc/Merlot hybrid yields a wine of rare aromatic and flavor intensity that reaches a stunning peak of expression in 2016. Readers should also be on the lookout for Ottantadue, the estate’s new Sangiovese.

I was quite taken with the 2013s from Carnasciale. Bettina Rogosky, along with her son Moritz and their long-time winemaker, Peter Schilling, have turned out two gorgeous wines. In particular, the Carnasciale, the estate’s second wine, is especially brilliant, while there is more of a difference between the Carnasciale and the flagship Caberlot than there was in 2012. Both wines are made from a unique cross of Merlot and Cabernet that Bettina Rogosky and her late husband, Wolf, planted at their small property in the mid 1980s and subsequently propagated at several small nearby vineyards.

In some vintages, the estate's two wines aren't that different stylistically. Two thousand and twelve is not one of those vintages. While the Carnasciale is built on forward, expressive fruit, the Il Caberlot is wonderfully lifted and aromatic, with a much more finessed side to its personality. Proprietor Bettina Rogosky, her son Moritz and their long-time winemaker, Peter Schilling, have done a good job getting the most out of a vintage that produced distinctly lithe wines.

Il Carnasciale is a tiny estate that was carved out of the present-day Petrolo property. More recently, the Rogosky family has added vineyards to their small vineyard on the property itself, but the wines remain unique as ever. Both of Il Carnasciale's wines are made with Caberlot, a Cabernet Franc/Merlot hybrid that is capable of yielding totally unique wines full of personality. Over the last year, the Caberlot and its second wine, Carnasciale, have come together quite nicely.

There are a lot of things going on at Il Carnasciale. New vineyards are gradually coming online, while a larger cellar is in the early planning stages. Bettina Rogosky's unbridled passion is the same, however. Today, her son Moritz is more actively involved than the past ensuring continuity at this small, family-run domaine in the hills of Valdarno. Long-time winemaker Peter Schilling is brutally candid, as always. The 2011s, which I tasted just prior to bottling, are the product of a harvest that was 2-3 weeks earlier than normal. On the other hand, the more classic 2010s emerge from a vintage that is considered late by today's standards, although 20 years ago picking in late September through mid-October was the norm. Both Il Caberlot and the Carnasciale, which is generally a younger vines bottling, need at least several years in the cellar to fully come together, as I was once again reminded, when I tasted the 2004s at the winery.

There are a lot of things going on at Il Carnasciale. New vineyards are gradually coming online, while a larger cellar is in the early planning stages. Bettina Rogosky's unbridled passion is the same, however. Today, her son Moritz is more actively involved than the past ensuring continuity at this small, family-run domaine in the hills of Valdarno. Long-time winemaker Peter Schilling is brutally candid, as always. The 2011s, which I tasted just prior to bottling, are the product of a harvest that was 2-3 weeks earlier than normal. On the other hand, the more classic 2010s emerge from a vintage that is considered late by today's standards, although 20 years ago picking in late September through mid-October was the norm. Both Il Caberlot and the Carnasciale, which is generally a younger vines bottling, need at least several years in the cellar to fully come together, as I was once again reminded, when I tasted the 2004s at the winery.

There are a lot of things going on at Il Carnasciale. New vineyards are gradually coming online, while a larger cellar is in the early planning stages. Bettina Rogosky's unbridled passion is the same, however. Today, her son Moritz is more actively involved than the past ensuring continuity at this small, family-run domaine in the hills of Valdarno. Long-time winemaker Peter Schilling is brutally candid, as always. The 2011s, which I tasted just prior to bottling, are the product of a harvest that was 2-3 weeks earlier than normal. On the other hand, the more classic 2010s emerge from a vintage that is considered late by today's standards, although 20 years ago picking in late September through mid-October was the norm. Both Il Caberlot and the Carnasciale, which is generally a younger vines bottling, need at least several years in the cellar to fully come together, as I was once again reminded, when I tasted the 2004s at the winery.

These are two pretty wines from Il Carnasciale, a tiny estate located in the hills above Mercatale Valdarno. The 2009s aren't as impressive as some recent vintages, but they are attractive and should drink well pretty much right out of the gate. Both wines are made from Caberlot, a cross between Cabernet Franc and Merlot that has yielded gorgeous wines here in the past.

These 2008s from Il Carnasciale are a bit below the estate's usual level of excellence. Both wines are made from the property's unique Cabernet Franc/Merlot clone.

Il Carnasciale is one of Italy's cult wineries. The tiny production is typically snapped up by those in the know, but the wines really do merit the effort required to find them. The estate's vineyards are planted with a clone believed to be a cross between Cabernet Franc and Merlot that combines the aromatics and structure of the former with the fruit of the latter.

Over the years Il Carnasciale has acquired cult status among readers who crave the finest Tuscany has to offer, and rightly so. These are some of the most unique wines from Italy. The estate's flagship wine, Il Caberlot, is made from a clone originally sourced in a nursery in Veneto believed to be a cross between Merlot and Cabernet Franc. This year, I was especially struck by how reminiscent Il Caberlot is of Giuseppe Quintarelli's Alzero, minus that wine's sweetness. In recent years, proprietor Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling have introduced a second wine, named simply Carnasciale. With the 2006, they might have done too good a job with that wine, as it is simply delicious. Readers who have an opportunity to pick up these wines should not hesitate, as they are superb.

Proprietor Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling continue to turn out stunning wines endowed with notable purity, class and elegance.at Il Carnasciale. The property was once a part of the adjacent Petrolo estate and over the years this hillside terroir has produced some truly magical wines. The estate's top wine, Il Caberlot, is bottled only in magnums and can be very hard to find. Fortunately in recent years the estate has introduced a second-wine, Il Carnasciale, which is bottled in standard 750ml bottles and offered at a more accessible price. Both wines are made from the unique Caberlot clone, which is believed to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet and Merlot. Readers who want to learn more about Il Carnasciale may want to check out my profile on the winery on this site.

There are a lot of things going on at Il Carnasciale. New vineyards are gradually coming online, while a larger cellar is in the early planning stages. Bettina Rogosky's unbridled passion is the same, however. Today, her son Moritz is more actively involved than the past ensuring continuity at this small, family-run domaine in the hills of Valdarno. Long-time winemaker Peter Schilling is brutally candid, as always. The 2011s, which I tasted just prior to bottling, are the product of a harvest that was 2-3 weeks earlier than normal. On the other hand, the more classic 2010s emerge from a vintage that is considered late by today's standards, although 20 years ago picking in late September through mid-October was the norm. Both Il Caberlot and the Carnasciale, which is generally a younger vines bottling, need at least several years in the cellar to fully come together, as I was once again reminded, when I tasted the 2004s at the winery.

In recent years Il Carnasciale's Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy's most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on. Today the wines are made under the direction of oenologist Peter Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone's naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum. Fortunately in some vintages the estate also produces a more accessible second wine, called simply Carnasciale, which is a selection of finished wines from barrel that aren't deemed to be Caberlot-level quality.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

In recent years Il Carnasciale's Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy's most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on. Today the wines are made under the direction of oenologist Peter Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone's naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum. Fortunately in some vintages the estate also produces a more accessible second wine, called simply Carnasciale, which is a selection of finished wines from barrel that aren't deemed to be Caberlot-level quality.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.

On a cold fall day I made my way up into the hills above Mercatale Valdarno in search of Podere Il Carnasciale. The unpaved winding roads pass through the adjacent Petrolo estate in this very rugged corner of the Tuscan landscape rich in forests. I followed my hand-written directions diligently and when I saw the small house at the end of the road I knew I had arrived. I was greeted by owner Bettina Rogosky and oenologist Peter Schilling, both of whom seemed relieved I had actually made it.

In recent years Il Carnasciale’s Caberlot has emerged as one of Italy’s most distinctive and highly-sought wines. With its cult status and tiny production of roughly 1,500 magnums, it is a wine many people have heard of but few have actually tasted. The story behind Il Caberlot dates back to the 1960s, when agronomist Remigio Bordini discovered a highly unique clone growing in an old vineyard in the Veneto. The clone appeared to be a genetic mutation of Cabernet but also exhibited some qualities considered more typical of Merlot. It was the perfect choice for Wolf and Bettina Rogosky, who were looking for something different and unique to plant on their small Tuscan property. After enduring a series of setbacks, as well as much bureaucratic red tape, the first Caberlot vines were planted in 1985. To bring them good fortune the Rogoskys buried a bottle of the legendary 1985 Sassicaia below the vineyard. Sadly, Wolf Rogosky passed away in 1996, but the wine his vision helped create lives on.

Il Carnasciale’s home vineyard measures just one-third of a hectare. The vines are planted at a high density of 10,000 plants per hectare, a practice that was revolutionary twenty years ago. The vineyard sits at 420 meters above sea-level, which experience suggests is the upper limit for Caberlot. The estate has recently acquired two small plots which lie at lower altitudes. The 2005s and 2006s I tasted from the first of these new plots were strikingly different from the wines being produced from the original vineyard. If the barrel samples I tasted are representative of the final wines, overall quality may very well be on the rise as the new vineyards enter production.

The wines are made under the direction of Schilling and consulting oenologist Vittorio Fiore. Yields per plant are kept quite low, which is facilitated by the Caberlot clone’s naturally low vigor. Fermentation lasts about a week after which the wine is racked into a combination of stainless steel and barriques for the malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends 18 months in 100% new medium-toast barriques (50% Allier, 50% Vosges) prior to being bottled exclusively in magnum.

Overall production is small and averages about 1,500 to 1,800 magnums. Fortunately, in recent years the estate has introduced a more moderately-priced second wine, called simply Carnasciale, made from its younger vines. Signora Rogosky is very particular in deciding who receives an allocation of Caberlot. She personally hand numbers the bottles and keeps track of their owners in a small notebook. Although the magnum-only format is not especially conducive to casual tastings, a gathering with several vintages and the requisite number of fellow wine lovers is sure to make for an unforgettable event. After having tasted through ten vintages of Caberlot, including the inaugural 1988, it is clear that Caberlot is every bit deserving of its status as one of Italy’s great cult wines. Consumers owe it to themselves to check out this highly singular wine, which beautifully expresses the uniqueness if its terroir, varietal and the quality-obsessed philosophy of proprietor Bettina Rogosky.

I couldn’t leave without tasting Signora Rogosky’s recently pressed 2006 olive oil. Packed with layers of flavor as well as personality, Il Carnasciale’s olive oil has become one of the staples of my kitchen. In 2006 the plants were hit with a snap of cold weather just as they were flowering, so total production is a miniscule 200 liters. A few slices of toasted crusty bread drizzled with oil and seasoned with a pinch of salt were the perfect way to wrap up this unforgettable morning.