2003 Barolo
Italy
Serralunga D'alba, Monforte D'alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Novello
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo
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On my mid-September visit to Piemonte, Pio Boffa was one of several veterans of the region to be high on the potential of the 2007 vintage, which he thought might turn out to be like 1971 (this producer had brought in everything but his nebbiolo at the time of my visit). "So far, the 2007 wines show correct acidity and ripe tannins; it's as if they ripen in your mouth," he said. Interestingly, Boffa describes 2004 as "very good but not exceptional. " For him, 2001 produced more concentrated, austere, classic nebbiolo wines. Boffa also believes that people will ultimately change their opinions on the '03s in years to come, especially concerning Barolos from Serralunga and Castiglione Falletto, where old vines with deep roots in humid, limestone-rich soil often produced dense and rich wines. On the other hand, the sandy soils of La Morra were trickier, Boffa added. "But so far, global warming has been very positive for our region. It's good for color, for supple tannins, for making wines that are not too astringent. Not long ago, we used to bring in damp fruit in cold weather. Hot, dry weather is a good thing. " But with climate change, he went on, "we're careful now not to overextract. We lower the temperature of the fermentation and we do less post-fermentation maceration. "
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2013 - 2023
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Pio Cesare is one of the region's h istoric estates. The winery's base Barolo and Barbarescos are made in a fairly traditional style while single-vineyard wines are decidedly more contemporary expressions. In the challenging 2003 vintage, the former, which are multi-commune blends, have turned out particularly well.