2000 Barolo

Wine Details
Producer

Pio Cesare

Place of Origin

Italy

Serralunga D'alba, Monforte D'alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Novello

Piedmont

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Nebbiolo

Reviews & Tasting Notes

00

Drinking Window

2013 - 2020

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Pio Cesare's 2000s have matured gracefully, although they appear to have limited upside from here.

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On my most recent visit to this producer based in the town of Alba, the house's Barolos and Barbarescos were more impressive than ever:while their aromas and flavors are classic, and their density of texture outstanding, the slight rusticity that has so long characterized this producer's wines has virtually been eliminated. The long project to renovate the winemaking facility was nearly complete, but director Pio Boffa noted that "finishing touches" could go on for many months in Italy. According to Boffa, 1998 here was better than '97 and even '96, thanks to improvements in the winery and the elimination of some ancient barrels. "The '99s are fruity and elegant wines," he added, "while the 2000s are packed. Two thousand one is more like '96 in style:what a great traditional Barolo and Barbaresco should be. "Pio Cesare's Barolos are aromatically complex and slow-aging wines, as the producer's 16-hectare Ornato vineyard ripens late in the cooler, iron-rich soils of Serralunga. "Although we get a lot of tannins, we never get pruney Barolos," Boffa explained.

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Pio Cesare was in the process of renovating and expanding its ancient winemaking facility and barrel cellar in Alba when I visited in late September. Under the direction of Pio Boffa, this traditional producer has updated its wines radically in recent years without sacrificing typicity or character. The house's Barbaresco Il Bricco and Barolo Ornato are vinified for sweetness of fruit and lush tannins; these wines age in a higher percentage of new barriques than the winery's regular Barbaresco and Barolo bottlings (Cesare refers to them as classico) which also age partly in small barrels but tend to have more pronounced tannic spine and less obvious early appeal. Boffa describes 2001, 2000 and 1999 as very dry years, but prefers them to 1997, another drought year in which, he said, the grape skins had a tendency to dehydrate before the tannins were completely ripe. Two years ago Boffa told me he was enamored of the '98s; he described these wines as denser, sweeter and rounder than the '97s.