1999 Barolo
Italy
Serralunga D'alba, Monforte D'alba, La Morra, Grinzane Cavour, Novello
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo
00
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Pio Cesare was in the process of renovating and expanding its ancient winemaking facility and barrel cellar in Alba when I visited in late September. Under the direction of Pio Boffa, this traditional producer has updated its wines radically in recent years without sacrificing typicity or character. The house's Barbaresco Il Bricco and Barolo Ornato are vinified for sweetness of fruit and lush tannins; these wines age in a higher percentage of new barriques than the winery's regular Barbaresco and Barolo bottlings (Cesare refers to them as classico) which also age partly in small barrels but tend to have more pronounced tannic spine and less obvious early appeal. Boffa describes 2001, 2000 and 1999 as very dry years, but prefers them to 1997, another drought year in which, he said, the grape skins had a tendency to dehydrate before the tannins were completely ripe. Two years ago Boffa told me he was enamored of the '98s; he described these wines as denser, sweeter and rounder than the '97s.