2004 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses

Philipponnat’s Clos des Goisses is one of Champagne’s most distinctive wines. Capable of aging effortlessly for decades, Clos des Goisses has built an enviable track record of successes, since it was first produced under the leadership of Pierre Philipponnat in 1935. Single-vineyard (parcellaire) Champagnes are all the rage today, but that was hardly the case eighty years ago.

Timing, they say, is everything. I was thrilled to be in San Francisco precisely on the day the Rare Wine Co. hosted this incredible tasting/dinner back to 1952 with Charles Philipponnat, because it was through Clos des Goisses that I was first introduced to the pure joy of fine, aged Champagne. With one exception, all of the bottles in this tasting were disgorged within the last few years and were sourced directly from the Philipponnat cellars. Charles Philipponnat explained that dosage was kept at 4.3 grams per liter for the sake of consistency. A handful of vintages were tasted from magnum, a magical format for all wines, but especially for Champagne, the only wine where the bottle is both a fermentation and an aging vessel.

Located on the slopes of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Clos des Goisses is a dramatic, south-facing site with inclines that approach 45 degrees. The soils are rich in chalk, which gives the wine much of its signature energy and overall tension. According to Charles Phillipponnat, ripeness in the Clos easily reaches a good 1.5% more than is common throughout Champagne, as the walls serve to trap the heat. The combination of southern exposure, chalky soils and warm microclimate yield powerful yet vibrant Champagnes of rare distinction. When Clos des Goisses is young, it is often intensely mineral, but as it ages, the textures become rich, mellow and vinous. In the very best years, Clos des Goisses matures gracefully and retains an aura of timelessness that is utterly mesmerizing.

Clos des Goisses began its life as a Chardonnay-based Champagne, but since 1964 the blend has favored Pinot Noir. In most vintages Clos des Goisses is around 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay. Over the years, winemaking has naturally evolved quite a bit. Up until 1988 Clos des Goisses was fermented in older barrels of assorted sizes. Between 1989 and 1998, the wine was made in a combination of enameled steel and new, smaller foudres. In 1999 and 2000, Clos des Goisses was done entirely in steel until 2001, when new 228-liter barrels were introduced for a portion of the wine. The 2001 was the first vintage made with temperature-controlled steel tanks. In 2004, Philipponnat moved into their new winery in Mareuil. During this time, oak fermentation increased to 60-70% of the total blend, which is where things stand today. These changes and developments notwithstanding, what comes through most in this tasting is the singular, undeniable personality of Clos des Goisses.

Charles Philipponnat showed me a number of wines during my most recent visit, including a handful of additions to the range. The Blanc de Noirs is new, as are the lieu-dit bottlings from Mareuil and Aÿ, both done in oak. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see the direction those wines take in the coming years. The flagship of course remains Clos des Goisses, which has been terrific, especially over the last few vintages.

I reviewed Philipponnat's current releases in our Spring 2013 Preview. Since then, Philipponnat has released the 2004 Clos des Goisses, one of the very best versions of this iconic Champagne I can remember tasting.