2017 Phélan Ségur
France
Saint Estèphe
Bordeaux
Red
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc, 34% Merlot
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2022 - 2037
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2022 - 2036
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2020 - 2032
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The one wine that did not quite meet my expectations this year was Phélan-Ségur. I have a lot of respect for this estate and participated in several blind tastings when it has surpassed expectations. However, even though I tasted this five or six times around assorted tastings, it felt a little disjointed and lean towards the finish. Perhaps it just took its eye off the ball as it changed hands? Under Belgian shipping magnate, Philippe Van de Vyvere, I have little doubt it will come back strongly, especially since from what I have heard, he will be underwriting radical improvements in the vineyard and winery.
“It was an early vintage, bud-break starting on 29 March, with no frost at all. We were lucky. During the beginning of June we had warm conditions for flowering without any disease pressure. June was very hot. This was the only time we saw some hydric stress, but then we had some rainfall. From July to harvest it was mostly fresh with intermittent showers, 15 days with hot temperatures. The weather was changeable. We started the harvest on 12 September and all the parcels were mature around the same time. We picked the crop in 13 days compared to 16 days for the 2016, finishing on 29 September with the final crop around 45hl/ha.” (During my second visit, I was shown a 3D map of the vineyard, blocks manically colored in, as they were picked throughout September to demonstrate the complex pattern of the harvest. If only the real harvest had taken just 30 seconds.)
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