2016 Phélan Ségur
France
Saint Estèphe
Bordeaux
Red
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot (2024 vintage)
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2016
2024 - 2041
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2024
2028 - 2045
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“The summer was pretty dry, but cool,” Véronique Dausse tells me on the first day of my Bordeaux marathon. “There was 150 mm more rain during 2024 in the northern weather station than the one to the south. Temperatures were a little bit higher in the north. There was 50% more rainfall in the year: around 1,500 mm of rain at Phélan Ségur. Saint-Estèphe has more clay, so it is better at absorbing the water. In winter, there was 1033 mm of rain between October to May compared to an average of 680 mm. So budding was early (March 28) but it took some time, and growth was retarded at the beginning. Flowering was earlier (June 5) but strung out over 10 to 12 days, with heavy rain mixed with hail that affected the Merlot in our central block. We had a nice summer without much rain in August. At the end of August, there was a bit of rain and this delayed véraison. So, we deleafed 70% of the vines in two steps, first on the east side of the vine, then on both sides of the vines, as we knew we had to wait for ripeness.”
Dausse continues, “We started picking the Merlot on September 30 and pushed it to the max, even though we might risk botrytis. We started the Cabernet Sauvignon a week later. In the end, we picked over nine days, the shortest ever, finishing on October 14. We did have a bit of botrytis, but this could be sorted out using optical sorting. For the first time, we used subcontracted pickers, which gave us more flexibility in terms of timing. The vinification was gentler with less extraction, stopping at 1010 density, plus a shorter maceration, as we did not want too much tannin. The average maceration was about 25 days instead of 28 to 30 days. It was the first year that we used 100% of our own yeast. We have 15 different indigenous yeasts spread over the vineyard. We used barrels that tend to give lighter wood tannins, and the élevage may be a little shorter.”
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2024
2028 - 2039
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2023
2029 - 2045
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One of my early visits was to Phélan Ségur, where estate manager Véronique Dausse gave a detailed summary of the growing season in 2023. “The weather conditions were quite normal with around 800mm of rain, 450mm during the winter, so only 350mm during the growing cycle. Spring was normal, but June was hotter than average, with 67mm of rain. Flowering was early, around May 28, a little later than other appellations. We had sporadic rain throughout the season and less mildew pressure thanks to 150 days of wind over 20km/hr that helped dry the vines. Thanks to the estuary, we had good airflow through the vines, which was considerably easier for us than in other places in Bordeaux. Summer was good, with a little rain in early September. We decided to de-leaf some of the late Cabernet Sauvignon in the first week of September to give them a month with better exposure to the sun. That’s something that we have hardly ever done before. Some of our neighbors started on September 5, but we began on September 18. It is the second biggest crop after 2016, so it took a whole month to pick. We had three groups of pickers, and we knew we would get extra pickers at the end to harvest the later-ripening plots of Cabernet Sauvignon. We changed the vinification a little. We continue using our selected yeasts for two-thirds of the production [also being introduced at Pape-Clément and elsewhere]. We find in trials that these produce the highest quality of wine and articulate the terroir and the vintage. We are also reducing SO2 during the vatting time. For the Merlot, we macerated a few days more, 30 instead of 26, as we felt we needed a bit more body, whereas Cabernet Sauvignon was a classic vinification, and their tannins were very ripe. It was easy to extract.”
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2023
2028 - 2043
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2022
2030 - 2065
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2022
2028 - 2042
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2022
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2022
2028 - 2047
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“We saw 40mm of hail mixed with rain falling in 20 minutes,” Estate Director Véronique Dausse explained at Phélan Ségur. “Our yields are down about 50%, although fortunately, our core parcels were largely spared. Harvest took 13 days instead of 21. In the cellar, we opted for very light vinifications, as we did not want to extract hard tannins.”
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2021
2027 - 2050
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2021
2031 - 2051
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2021
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2021
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“It was maybe not the best time to transition to biodynamic farming,” Managing Director Véronique Dausse quipped. “Yields were 32 hectoliters per hectare as opposed to the more normal 45 or so. But we had good weather at the end of the year, with two modest heat spikes in July and August. We used the highest amount of Cabernet Sauvignon ever for the Grand Vin. Vinifications were a bit longer than usual, but with gentle extractions at the end.” Once again, Phélan Ségur is a star in the Médoc. The Grand Vin was impressive on the multiple occasions I tasted it.
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2020
2029 - 2060
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2020
2028 - 2050
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2020
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2020
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2019
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2019
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2019
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2019
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2018
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2018
2026 - 2043
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2018
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2018
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"Rain was about 20% higher than normal," Technical Director Fabrice Bacquey explained. "The vines held up well during the summer, although we started seeing the signs of heat stress in early September. A brief but intense storm on September 6 was helpful in restoring balance."
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The one wine that did not quite meet my expectations this year was Phélan-Ségur. I have a lot of respect for this estate and participated in several blind tastings when it has surpassed expectations. However, even though I tasted this five or six times around assorted tastings, it felt a little disjointed and lean towards the finish. Perhaps it just took its eye off the ball as it changed hands? Under Belgian shipping magnate, Philippe Van de Vyvere, I have little doubt it will come back strongly, especially since from what I have heard, he will be underwriting radical improvements in the vineyard and winery.
“It was an early vintage, bud-break starting on 29 March, with no frost at all. We were lucky. During the beginning of June we had warm conditions for flowering without any disease pressure. June was very hot. This was the only time we saw some hydric stress, but then we had some rainfall. From July to harvest it was mostly fresh with intermittent showers, 15 days with hot temperatures. The weather was changeable. We started the harvest on 12 September and all the parcels were mature around the same time. We picked the crop in 13 days compared to 16 days for the 2016, finishing on 29 September with the final crop around 45hl/ha.” (During my second visit, I was shown a 3D map of the vineyard, blocks manically colored in, as they were picked throughout September to demonstrate the complex pattern of the harvest. If only the real harvest had taken just 30 seconds.)
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2016
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2002
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2001
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2000
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"The 2000 is our best wine in ten years, without the surmaturite of the '90," says Thierry Gardinier, who emphasized that there was a distinct change in style here beginning in '99. "We now control the yields better through pruning and green harvesting, and thus get better concentration of fruit," he explained. "At the same time, we now make a point of declassifying cuves that have tougher tannins."
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1999
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"The 2000 is our best wine in ten years, without the surmaturite of the '90," says Thierry Gardinier, who emphasized that there was a distinct change in style here beginning in '99. "We now control the yields better through pruning and green harvesting, and thus get better concentration of fruit," he explained. "At the same time, we now make a point of declassifying cuves that have tougher tannins."
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1999
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In technical terms, '99 and '98 are quite similar, reports chef de cave Alain Coculet. "Tannins and pHs are similar, though the acidity level is even lower in '99 than in '98," he notes, adding "the '98 is more serious."
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1998
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"The 2000 is our best wine in ten years, without the surmaturite of the '90," says Thierry Gardinier, who emphasized that there was a distinct change in style here beginning in '99. "We now control the yields better through pruning and green harvesting, and thus get better concentration of fruit," he explained. "At the same time, we now make a point of declassifying cuves that have tougher tannins."
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1998
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In technical terms, '99 and '98 are quite similar, reports chef de cave Alain Coculet. "Tannins and pHs are similar, though the acidity level is even lower in '99 than in '98," he notes, adding "the '98 is more serious."
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1998
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Thierry Gardinier, who has been in charge here since 1993, has overseen the recent installation of a new chai and winemaking team with the objective of making a vin de terroir. Vines have been pruned back, and extensive ebourgeonnage has further cut crop levels. There has always been a lot of vendange vert here, says Gardinier, but this measure merely causes the vines to overcompensate; it necessary to do the crop reduction much earlier in the season. Phelan-Segur is aged in 50% new oak with a medium-plus toast; because the wine is now put into barrel earlier, some of the malolactic fermentation occurs in oak. Production in recent years has been about 15,000 cases of Phelan-Segur and 15,000 cases of a second wine. The vineyards with the potential to go into the grand vin represent two very different terroirs, according to Gardinier: 15 hectares of clay-rich, redder soils near Calon-Segur and 35 hectares of finer, sandier soil near Montrose.
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1997
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Thierry Gardinier, who has been in charge here since 1993, has overseen the recent installation of a new chai and winemaking team with the objective of making a vin de terroir. Vines have been pruned back, and extensive ebourgeonnage has further cut crop levels. There has always been a lot of vendange vert here, says Gardinier, but this measure merely causes the vines to overcompensate; it necessary to do the crop reduction much earlier in the season. Phelan-Segur is aged in 50% new oak with a medium-plus toast; because the wine is now put into barrel earlier, some of the malolactic fermentation occurs in oak. Production in recent years has been about 15,000 cases of Phelan-Segur and 15,000 cases of a second wine. The vineyards with the potential to go into the grand vin represent two very different terroirs, according to Gardinier: 15 hectares of clay-rich, redder soils near Calon-Segur and 35 hectares of finer, sandier soil near Montrose.
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1997
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1996
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Thierry Gardinier, who has been in charge here since 1993, has overseen the recent installation of a new chai and winemaking team with the objective of making a vin de terroir. Vines have been pruned back, and extensive ebourgeonnage has further cut crop levels. There has always been a lot of vendange vert here, says Gardinier, but this measure merely causes the vines to overcompensate; it necessary to do the crop reduction much earlier in the season. Phelan-Segur is aged in 50% new oak with a medium-plus toast; because the wine is now put into barrel earlier, some of the malolactic fermentation occurs in oak. Production in recent years has been about 15,000 cases of Phelan-Segur and 15,000 cases of a second wine. The vineyards with the potential to go into the grand vin represent two very different terroirs, according to Gardinier: 15 hectares of clay-rich, redder soils near Calon-Segur and 35 hectares of finer, sandier soil near Montrose.
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1996
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1995
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1994
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1990
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1982
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1961
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