2009 Petrus

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You can't say the Berrouet family wasn't born under a lucky star. The first vintage for Jean-Claude Berrouet, the long-time winemaker at Moueix who is still very much in evidence as a consultant, was the great 1964, and now his son Olivier has kicked off his career as the new technical director at Petrus with the even better 2009. I asked Olivier if it wasn't a little daunting to be in charge of one of the world's most famous wines, and he just smiled, saying modestly: "No, really, being the new kid in town here, I'm just trying not to upset anybody's routine! And both Christian Moueix and my father always remind me that when it comes to Petrus and the wines of Moueix, it's all about teamwork." The 2009 Petrus is my early candidate for wine of the vintage. Of particular note: while the young merlot vines were harvested beginning on September 17, the old vines were not touched until October 1, and this may be part of the secret of this amazing wine. There had never been as long a wait between the two harvests. This wine provides a clear illustration of the importance of terroir: the famous clay buttonhole on which Petrus rests allowed the vines to escape the effects of water stress, and this made all the difference in 2009.

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