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Christian Moueix can be relied on to explain the shortcomings of every new Bordeaux vintage during the spring after the harvest, and he warmed to this subject in April. "For one thing, 2004 was one of the biggest vintages in decades," he told me. "Only 1994, 1974 and 1973 were bigger. We crop-thinned at the end of June and also in early August. At our top chateaux, we did a third crop-thinning in early September too. We also de-leafed on the north side of the vines in June, and then de-leafed on the south and west sides by mid-August, so that we could crop-thin on the sunny side of the vines for the first time. The second characteristic of the vintage is that it was a very average year in terms of weather: low in rain and average in sunshine. Even our September sunshine was only 2% above the 57-year average. So we had a huge crop and an average summer. Thirty years ago, this kind of vintage would have been like the '73s: for early drinking. Thanks largely to our sorting tables now, 2004 is a useful vintage: good wines for drinking but not for collecting."
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