2003 Pavie Macquin
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Merlot
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2020 - 2028
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Winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt carried out a very soft extraction in 2005, but a somewhat longer cuvaison than usual, lasting a full month. He explained that the seeds were ripe before the skins, and in any event the estate harvested very late, waiting until September 29 to start the merlot and until October 7 for the cabernet sauvignon. Derenoncourt carried out a saignee of 5% to 10% on some of the larger grapes from clay soil, as he wanted the wine to have the concentration of flavor to be able to support its alcohol (it currently weighs in at 14.9%). Typically a slow-to-evolve, low-pH St. Emilion from cold soil and late-ripening vines, the 2005 version is especially masculine in style and appears to be built for long life in bottle.
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"It was necessary to do a lot of work in the vines to reduce the naturally high yields in 2004," said estate manager Nicolas Thienpont, "including further crop-reduction work at the end of August and beginning of September to eliminate the pink grapes and to remove the shoulders from the huge bunches. We preferred to wait and pick late, between the rains. We'd rather risk a bit of rot to pick late with ripe skins than harvest too early with fruit that's not yet really ripe. And in any event, we have a vibrating sorting table." Most of the merlot in this late-ripening parcel was picked between October 11 and 15, while the cabernets came in between October 18 and 28.
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It should hardly be surprising that this property, on cold, late-ripening soil on the cotes east of the town of St. Emilion close to Troplong-Mondot, has had an outstanding vintage in 2003. The team began the merlot harvest on September 20, and the cabernet on October 2. Pavie-Macquin is always characterized by firm acidity (it can often be tough to taste in the early going for this reason), and the pH in 2003 is a rather low 3.5 (compared to 3.4 in 2002 and 3.6 in 2000). "The fruit just doesn't lose its crunchiness and shrivel in this sector," said winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt.
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