1998 Pavie Macquin
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Merlot
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2019 - 2028
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"Pavie-Macquin gets too rustic when yields are especially low," notes Nicolas Thienpont, who aims for 40 hectoliters per hectare but frequently gets less. "The fruit is naturally very powerful, and it needs a very careful vinification without extended maceration-except in '96, when we needed more gras." The 2000 harvest did not begin here until October 3, and the cabernets were picked between October 6 and 13. For the first time, the franc (15% of the blend) and the sauvignon (5%) were vinified together.
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This estate has a remarkably fruity '99 in the making, a wine that is likely to be among the top four or five St. Emilions of the vintage. The estate used a bit of osmose inverse in '99 to raise the potential alcohol about 0.4%, and did a softer-than-usual cuvaison. Microbullage is used here to provide controlled oxygenation—"but only when the wine needs it, not automatically every 15 days," says consulting winemaker Stephane Derenoncourt. In fact, Pavie-Macquin is assembled very late (the '98 had not yet been blended) so that each cuvee can get the microbullage it needs. I tasted the major components of the '99 but have limited my notes to an approximation of the final blend. Worth special mention, however, was an impressively dense, sweet, liqueur-like cuvee called Aglace, from 60- and 80-year-old merlot vines on rocky soil next to Chateau Pavie. There will be no second wine in '98, as even the cabernet sauvignon was successful enough to make it into the grand vin.
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The estate cropped for 40 hectoliters per hectare, reported Nicolas Thienpont, but then got only 34 h/h, due to the small size and thick skins of the grapes. "We were surprised by how little juice there was," he noted. Extraction was on the soft side due to the firm acids and tannins of the vintage. The estate began harvesting on September 23, and even the cabernet sauvignon came in with potential alcohol in the 12.5% range, according to Thienpont; there will be no second wine in '98, as all of the raw materials were strong. The final blend consists of 75% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon.
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