1995 Pavie Macquin
France
Saint Émilion 1er Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Merlot
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2019 - 2019
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Here, as at nearby Troplong-Mondot, there was less of a problem with uneven ripening in 1997 than in most other sections of the right bank. The harvest was very late, lasting until October 5 for merlot and until October 14 for cabernet. Although 25% less wine will be bottled as Pavie-Macquin than in '96, a solid 80% of the estate production will go into its grand vin A portion of the malolactic fermentation (including a good 60% in '97) occurs in oak, but the percentage has up until now varied significantly according to conditions of each year. "We're just poor artisans," notes Nicolas Thienpont, who added that a new chai is being constructed, in part to do the secondary fermentation in barriques as a regular part of the winemaking process. I continue to find Pavie-Macquin to be consistently strong and suave, with a more pleasing balance and more personality than numerous recently introduced-but thus far unproven-right-bank cult wines that already command much higher prices. One reason for the so-far moderate prices: production here is typically a relatively robust 4,000 to 4,500 cases.
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Tasting the components of the '95 from barrel at this small estate on the St. Émilion plateau east of town was one of the highlights of my week in Bordeaux. The old-vines merlot in '95, which generally makes up 70% of Pavie-Macquin, is particularly impressive, with an uncanny creamy sweetness and great thrust. The cabernet franc, too, achieved full ripeness, coming in with grape sugars around 13 degrees. Only the cabernet sauvignon missed out on full ripeness, and this juice, which normally comprises 5% of the final blend, will probably go into the estate's second wine. A portion of the malo is done in barriques, and the lees are stirred twice a week during the month of the secondary fermentation. The final blend is made very late: the '94 had been assembled just two weeks before my visit.
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