2020 Space Cadet

This is a fascinating range of new releases from Paul Lato. The lineup continues to grow, and that provides quite a bit of insight as to the strengths and weaknesses of the 2020 vintage. The Syrahs are especially of note, as are the Santa Barbara Pinots and Chardonnays, all of which have a bit more density than normal. The 2020 Space Cadet, Lato’s Syrah/Grenache blend. is outrageously beautiful. I am less enthusiastic about the Chardonnay and Pinot from Hyde, in Carneros, where conditions were much less favorable. I am also not a huge fan of the blended Kokoro series Chardonnay and Pinot. There is a rationale for blending sites in appellation wines because different sites can be complementary, but I am not sure it works with top selections, and that is not a criticism of just these wines, it is my view of most wines in this category. Readers will note the introduction of two new Napa Valley Cabernets in 2019. Finding high quality but affordable fruit in Napa Valley is much harder than it is in Santa Barbara, so it will be interesting to see the direction these wines take. As always, the house style is defined by forward fruit, a pretty healthy use of new French oak and textural intensity, all of which result in wines that are on the more extroverted, opulent side of the spectrum.