2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

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2013 - 2018

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It is always fascinating to sit down with Paul Hobbs and his winemaker Megan Baccitich, as these Chardonnays and Pinots run the gamut of styles, clones and sites in Sonoma. According to Hobbs, the 2010 harvest was two weeks later than normal, while 2011 was three weeks later than normal! One of the other main differences is that temperatures increased towards the end of 2010, but stayed very much on the cool side in 2011. My impression is that when all is said and done, vintage 2011 will turn out to be superior than 2010 for this range. As always, the Hobbs house style does a very nice job of capturing both textural richness and plenty of site specificity.

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I missed seeing the peripatetic Paul Hobbs for the first time this year and tasted through the new set of wines with assistant winemaker Megan Baccitich and Scott Morrison, who oversees Hobbs' Crossbarn project. Morrison told me that the shorthand description of the two vintages that we tasted was that "2009 equals plush and 2010 equals fresh," adding that he thinks 2010 was an ideal year for chardonnay because of the cool season and "the slow uptake of sugar while acid was retained." Baccitich told me that "the best 2010 red wines have density but aren't heavy. They have tension but mostly aren't for people who want big, rich wines, especially with Napa cabernet."

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2013 - 2020

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This is a dazzling set of Chardonnays and Pinots from Paul Hobbs. The wines are made with native primary and secondary fermentations, aged on their lees and bottled without fining of filtration. Readers may want to check out my video interview with Paul Hobbs. Vintages 2009 and 2010 are both strong, but I find myself favoring the 2010s for their greater verve and focus. Either way, it is virtually impossible to go wrong with any of these new and upcoming releases.

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