2013 Sancerre Les Caillottes

This is one of the youngest and most energetic houses of the central Loire. Founded only in 1987, Pascal Jolivet now manages 62 hectares of vine and produces nearly one million bottles of wine each year. Not surprisingly, the winery outside of town just off the main road looks a touch industrial, but has been set in a green habitat to appear more natural. As Jolivet was in Paris when I visited the estate, I tasted the new releases with his young Italian winemaker Valentina Vuoso, who studied in Conegliano and Asti before heading to Montpellier. Two thousand thirteen was not an easy vintage for anyone, she said, but Pouilly suffered more than Sancerre, with greater problems stemming from both mildew and botrytis. Of the 18 wines the company produces, we focused on the major labels, including the Clos du Roy, which is often my favorite Sancerre here in any given vintage. While many of the entry-level sauvignon blancs have an appealing commercial ring, the finer sites are hand-harvested and fermented with wild yeasts, which generally gives them more character. Also recommended:2013 Sauvignon Blanc Attitude (85).