2020 Chambertin Grand Cru

It has been several years since I tasted the wines from Olivier Bernstein, whose winery is located in the heart of Beaune. Bernstein owns the Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux and the Mazis-Chambertin, and the other wines come from long-term contracts. “We picked from August 29 over six days,” cellarmaster Richard Séguin told me when I visited. “All the fruit was picked by our own team. The alcohol level is 13.1° to 13.2°, and we use between 60% and 80% whole bunch throughout the Grand Crus.” These 2020s are clearly bespoke, with no expense spared in the winery. I do feel that occasionally the 100% new oak is superfluous to requirements, adding a little too much polish to the fruit, and consequently, one or two cuvées lack a bit of identity and soul. If you you’re your Burgundy well-polished, then these will appeal, though if you seek more in terms of transparency, it may be less to your taste.