1998 Riesling Steinriesler

This is one of the most unusual estates in the Wachau, but not only because it is on the "wrong side of the river" in Mautern. Years ago, it was one of the first estates in Austria to go biodynamic and it still favors wild yeasts, no temperature control and large old casks. Further, owners Nikolaus and Christine Saahs are not perturbed by partial malolactic fermentations and bottle very late, often only years after harvest, so that their grüner veltliners often taste like chardonnays. I often find the wines very difficult to assess in their youth and am then surprised at how well they age. On the positive side, the Saahs prefer harvesting on the cusp of ripeness so that even their Smaragds seldom have more than 12.5% alcohol. (www.nikolaihof.at) Also recommended: 2012 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Im Weingebirge (87), 2010 Riesling Smaragd Vom Stein (87).