2018 Gattinara

00

Vintage

2020

Drinking Window

2024 - 2045

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I have visited Nervi several times over the years, but it was the visit just after Roberto Conterno acquired the estate that sticks in my mind most because even then, the vision for what would follow was evident. Since then, Conterno and his team have made a series of stellar wines. There are three Gattinaras in the range. The straight Gattinara is the most approachable of the wines and is therefore released a year earlier, although aging for all three wines is three years in wood. The two vineyard designates – Molsino and Valferrana – offer different shades of complexity, finesse and intensity, depending on the year. The Molsino is the first of the two single vineyards to ripen and can be a bigger wine, while the Valferrana ripens later because of its somewhat more sheltered position. All three were memorable.

Readers often ask if the Nervi wines are of comparable quality to the Barolos. I don’t think of wine as a competition. Some vintages may favor one appellation over another, the most striking example being 2018, when the Nervi wines were quite a bit more complex than the Conterno Barolos. Aside from those cases, the wines from the two estates can absolutely stand side by side. In fact, that is how I taste them every year.

00

Vintage

2019

Drinking Window

2027 - 2044

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Roberto Conterno follows his 2018s with a set of 2019s that is equally compelling. The 2019s are perhaps a bit more austere and less forthcoming at this stage than the 2018s. That won't be an issue for readers who can exercise a bit of patience. The 2019s were vinified in wood uprights. Malolactic fermentations followed quickly, as they often do at Nervi-Conterno. The wines spent about 32 months in oak prior to being bottled. All three 2019s were bottled at the same time, but the crus see an extra year in bottle prior to being released.

00

Vintage

2017

Drinking Window

2027 - 2047

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Roberto Conterno continues to take Nervi to new heights. I tasted all of these wines from cask during a visit to the winery in 2018, so I can’t say I am surprised by the level of quality. The 2016 single-vineyard Gattinaras are out of this world. Conterno has taken his maniacal attention to detail and the best practices he has developed at his Giacomo Conterno estate in Serralunga and applied them at Nervi. The results speak for themselves.

00

Vintage

2016

Drinking Window

2024 - 2041

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Roberto Conterno’s acquisition of Nervi in 2018 made waves and has brought a whole new level of interest to Alto Piemonte. I visited just a few months after the purchase was complete and Conterno had already added temperature control to the cellar. Since then, Conterno has built a new winery and added the same state of the art bottling line he has at Giacomo Conterno. The range of wines is now streamlined to three Gattinaras; the straight Gattinara bottling plus the single vineyard Molsino and Valferrana, plus the Rosé, a longtime favorite at the winery. The newest project is a sparkling wine that has not yet been released, but that appears quite promising, based on what I have tasted so far.

00

Vintage

2015

Drinking Window

2021 - 2035

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00

Vintage

2015

Drinking Window

2022 - 2035

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Roberto Conterno’s acquisition of Nervi in 2018 made waves and has brought a whole new level of interest to Alto Piemonte. I visited just a few months after the purchase was complete and Conterno had already added temperature control to the cellar. Since then, Conterno has built a new winery and added the same state of the art bottling line he has at Giacomo Conterno. The range of wines is now streamlined to three Gattinaras; the straight Gattinara bottling plus the single vineyard Molsino and Valferrana, plus the Rosé, a longtime favorite at the winery. The newest project is a sparkling wine that has not yet been released, but that appears quite promising, based on what I have tasted so far.

00

Vintage

2014

Drinking Window

2018 - 2024

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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year

Roberto Conterno’s acquisition of Nervi in 2018 made waves and has brought a whole new level of interest to Alto Piemonte. I visited just a few months after the purchase was complete and Conterno had already added temperature control to the cellar. Since then, Conterno has built a new winery and added the same state of the art bottling line he has at Giacomo Conterno. The range of wines is now streamlined to three Gattinaras; the straight Gattinara bottling plus the single vineyard Molsino and Valferrana, plus the Rosé, a longtime favorite at the winery. The newest project is a sparkling wine that has not yet been released, but that appears quite promising, based on what I have tasted so far.

00

Vintage

2011

Drinking Window

2018 - 2028

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Roberto Conterno's recent acquisition of Nervi is sure to shake things up in sleepy Gattinara. Naturally, given the long cycles of production for the wines it may take a few years to see meaningful changes at Nervi. Even so, I am hopeful that won't take long. Conterno told me he was pleasantly surprised by the excellent condition of the Nervi vineyards, much more so than he was at a similar stage when he bought Ceretta in 2008. For Gattinara, the arrival of the most prestigious producer in Italy is clearly a huge positive.

00

Vintage

2010

Drinking Window

2020 - 2030

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Roberto Conterno's recent acquisition of Nervi is sure to shake things up in sleepy Gattinara. Naturally, given the long cycles of production for the wines it may take a few years to see meaningful changes at Nervi. Even so, I am hopeful that won't take long. Conterno told me he was pleasantly surprised by the excellent condition of the Nervi vineyards, much more so than he was at a similar stage when he bought Ceretta in 2008. For Gattinara, the arrival of the most prestigious producer in Italy is clearly a huge positive.

00

Vintage

1991

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