2001 Nenin
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"Yes, we had a problem with blocked maturity on our gravelly soils in 2003, but not with surmaturite," director Jerome Depoizier told me in early April. Nenin picked a hectare of merlot on August 26, with special permission from the wine authorities, then brought in the bulk of the crop between September 4 and 14. The pH of the 2003 is close to 4.0, but the wine shows a harmony of elements and does not come off as flat. "Since the merlot didn't really show surmaturite, we didn't really need to freshen it up as much with cabernet, as we had to do in 2002 and 2001," Depoizier told me. (The 2003 includes just 20% cabernet franc, vs. 30% in the 2002 and 27% in the 2001.) Incidentally, Nenin has just planted a bit of cabernet sauvignon on blue clay-"to add complexity and finesse," according to Depoizier.
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According to director Jerome Depoizier, Nenin made use of two triage tables after the fruit was destemmed: the first to remove the sticks and stalks, the second to eliminate the underdeveloped pink and green grapes. Ultimate production was barely 33 hectoliters per hectare, said Depoizier. Following the purchase of this vineyard by Jean-Hubert Delon, whose family owns Leoville-Las Cases, the early vintages seemed almost Medoc-like in character and structure. Depoizier describes the '02 as more Pomerol in style, the '01 as a more classic, balanced wine of finesse, and the 2000 as a less typical wine dominated by its sheer ripeness. "We look for fruit but also for serious structure and density," he told me.
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