1998 Nenin
France
Pomerol
Bordeaux
Red
54% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Franc, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon (2024 vintage)
00
2018 - 2022
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Owner Jean-Hubert Delon, whose family owns Leoville-Las Cases, is constructing a state-of-the-art cuverie that will feature tiny stainless steel fermenters for vinifying by parcel and age of vines. Following the 1999 purchase of 4 hectares of Certan-Giraud on the Pomerol plateau, there are now 28 hectares in production, six of which are planted to cabernet franc and the rest to merlot. Targeted yields are in the very low 30-31 hectoliters-per-hectare range here, and vinification temperatures are kept below 27oC. I liked the young '00, but I still feel as if I'm tasting wine from the Medoc.
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With a very low crop level of 32 hectoliters per hectare, the merlot ripened early here, and the harvest began on September 8. Some of the estate's merlot reached 15.2% potential alcohol, but these lots lacked structure and depth and were declassified into the estate's second wine, Fugue de Nenin.
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Nenin's Lionel Bares was among the handful of right-bank insiders who cautioned that the '98 Pomerols may not quite live up to the early reports. "Where might they fall short?" I asked. "They lack a bit of finesse, of elegance," he responded--an opinion I heard expressed elsewhere. The harvest lasted from September 23 through October 5, and some merlot grapes reached 14% potential alcohol. Even the cabernet franc was a healthy 12.5%. The crop level was controlled through a severe eclaircissage, and the grand vin represents a tough 50% selection.
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