2021 Chenin Blanc Old Vine

Ian Naudé seems to laugh as much as he talks, and that’s always a good thing. Happy man equates to wines that make you happy, and Naudé’s certainly will. What I admire is how he furrows his own path, taking the lead on the oft-derided Colombard variety and showing what it can do in the right hands. “There will be 20 more winemakers making Colombard from next year,” he tells me with some pride. Check out his 2023 Langland Colombard for evidence, better than his 2022. My pick, however, is his Southbos White Blend, where Chenin takes the lead, a marvelous wine whose only drawback is the limited production of just four barrels. Even better are the 2021 Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Oupa Willem Red Blend based on Cinsault and Cabernet in his throwback to the Sixties, not to mention a terrific 2017 Werfdans Cinsault from early-picked whole bunch Cinsault.