2005 Gimmeldinger Schlossel Rieslaner Beerenauslese

There can no longer be any question that Martin Franzen has made his imprint on this estate's style. It is more a question of whether you like the new standard or not. Franzen's wines are perhaps more elegant and refined than those of his predecessor Hans-Gunter Schwarz; to my palate, they are often reminiscent of the Mosel. That works well for the spatlese, auslese and upward, which in 2005 are again among the finest produced in the Pfalz. The dry rieslings, however, although improving, do not have the weight or depth these bottles showed in bygone days. Not surprisingly, for that reason one of Germany's leading food and wine publications has demoted Muller-Catoir to the minor leagues in their annual rankings. I would not yet be so harsh, but those looking for the finest dry rieslings might be better served elsewhere. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2005 Neustadter Monchgarten Weissburgunder Spatlese Trocken (86), 2005 Haardter Herrenletten Grauburgunder Spatlese Trocken (87), 2005 Haardter Burgergarten Muskateller Spatlese Trocken (86), 2005 Mussbacher Eselshaut Riesling Kabinett Trocken (85), 2005 Haardter Herzog Riesling Kabinett Trocken (86), 2005 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken (87), 2005 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese Trocken (88), 2005 Mussbacher Eselshaut Riesling Kabinett (86), 2005 Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Kabinett (87), 2005 Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spatlese (87). Other wines tasted: 2005 Riesling Trocken, 2005 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken.