2006 Mouton-Rothschild
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2018 - 2031
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical held in January 2016.
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The 2007 Mouton is an early candidate for wine of the vintage-and the very strict 42% selection is clearly a key factor in the wine's high quality. Estate manager Philippe Dhalluin pointed out that with this vintage Mouton will release its smallest quantity of grand vin since the 1969. "There were a full 70 days between the veraison and the harvest, the longest since 1953," noted Dhalluin. "There's really no reference point for this vintage." The grapes were very ripe and the extraction went quickly; the maceration time here was a short two weeks. Dhalluin's predecessor used to raise the temperature of the wine during the post-fermentation maceration, but that practice has been discontinued, as has the use of heavily charred barrels. But Dhalluin emphasized that the woody, smoky, cedary taste many find in Mouton is from the estate's cabernets, not from the oak.
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With estate manager Philippe Dhalluin now firmly in control here and with a few vintages under his belt, many Medoc insiders expect Mouton-Rothschild to give Lafite a run for its money in the coming years. Dhalluin has made a host of small but key improvements in the winery, and, more important, has significantly upgraded the work in the vineyards. For example, Mouton has a good percentage of interplanted young vines, but is now picking these vines separately and eliminating them from the grand vin At Mouton (and with Armailhac as well beginning in 2006), the grapes no longer have to be pumped into the cuve Dhalluin noted that his predecessor used to raise the temperature of the wine during the post-fermentation maceration, but he now does any further maceration at a more "normal" temperature. He also uses "bigger but less frequent" pumpovers during the fermentation. Harvesting here is now much more precise, and in 2006 the grand vin represents just 44% of the crop (as recently as 2003, it was 87%). Still, said Dhalluin, the best "classic" parcels of Mouton produced less juice in 2006 due to hydric stress rather than stricter selection: the berries were smaller. Dhalluin carried out a more gentle extraction than usual. The color came quickly and he reduced the fermentation temperature to 26o or 27o, with the total maceration lasting no more than three weeks. But the 2006 Mouton nonetheless has a higher IPT than the 2005 (77, vs. 74).