2005 Le Petit Mouton

Estate manager Philippe Dhalluin, who moved from Branaire to Mouton in April of 2003, really only took over control of production at Mouton for the 2004 vintage (Dhalluin told me he had "no impact" in 2003). Prior to that, say some critics of this estate, there were too many strong personalities involved in decision-making here. Dhalluin is seeking above all else to make a wine that accurately expresses its terroir With the 2004 and 2005, only medium-toast barrels were used, not the heavily charred oak that contributed an exotic character to some previous vintages. (Dhalluin noted that retired winemaker Patrick Leon eliminated the heavy-toast barrels with the 2002 vintage). Although Dhalluin prefers a long maceration, he has attempted to keep temperatures more moderate than in the past. With the 2004 vintage, he has harvested the estate's young vines first-even those interplanted in old plots-and the old plants later on. Perhaps most important in 2005, Dhalluin practiced a stricter selection than this estate has done in recent years: just 64% of the crop went into Mouton (and another 20% into the second wine, Petit Mouton), with the result that the production of the grand vin will be the lowest in 30 years, with the exception of the tiny, frost-reduced crop of 1991. In the interest of full disclosure, I should say that there are plenty of early critics of the young 2005 Mouton, but I have to wonder if this is simply Mouton-bashing. My sample was wonderfully rich and aromatic, with the potential to be Mouton's finest vintage in many years.