1996 Montrose
France
Saint Estèphe
Bordeaux
Red
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc (2023 vintage)
00
1996
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"Not an easy style of Montrose" is the way regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the new '98, a wine made from a near-typical blend of 62% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 8% cabernet franc and petit verdot. Incidentally, Laguarigue claims that the '98 Dames de Montrose is more powerful than the '96 (despite including 45% merlot), but at the level of the grand vin the '96 is in a class of its own.
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2023
2032 - 2063
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2023
2033 - 2075
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2022
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2022
2032 - 2062
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2022
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2022
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“Starting in June, we had four heat spikes where temperatures soared above 35 degrees,” explained Technical Director Vincent Decup. “We worked the soils early, removing the cover crop to reduce competition with the vines. We lowered the canopies and deleafed just before harvest, more of a practical consideration for the pickers than anything else. There was a bit of damage from hail, but it was 5-7%. Consider that we had 20mm of water from July 1 through to harvest instead of the 200mm or so that is more typical. In the cellar we opted for shorter extractions. The wines have alcohols in the 14.5% range, so similar to 2019 and lower than 2018.”
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2021
2026 - 2050
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2021
2031 - 2051
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2021
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2021
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There are changes afoot at Montrose, at least in terms of personnel, as Herve Berland retires and is replaced by Pierre Graffeuille from Léoville Las-Cases. I tasted with the full team including technical director Vincent Decup. “The weather was quite complicated,” Decup told me. “The season was more complicated than usual with more rain from March to July. We lost 5-6% of the crop due to mildew pressure. It’s more difficult because we farm organically and worked five weekends applying copper before the rains, sometimes twice a week. We moved the harvest to 21 September until 6 October. There were 11 days of harvest over that period. There were a few showers, but not too heavy. It was important to decide on the exact date of picking for each parcel. The Merlot was slightly larger than usual and the Petit Verdot and the Cabernet Sauvignon about the same. We used 31% Merlot in the final blend, which is more than usual (around 20%) because the yields were higher (38hL/ha for the Montrose), even though we only used Merlot on gravel soils that reached a higher level than those of Merlot on clayey soils. Analytically, it seemed like the maturity was not there as the sugar levels were lower, but when we tasted the berries, the skins and tannins were ripe. The conditions at the end of the harvest were similar to those of 2014. We did less remontage during the three-week cuvaison, especially at the end of the period to maintain the balance of the wines. The blend is matured in 60% new oak and 33% for the La Dame de Montrose. We used the vin de presse, around 12% in all three wines, to obtain the density and concentration instead of pressing harder. We feel that the 2021 Montrose is in a similar vein to the 2014, maybe to the 1988 but with much more precision.”
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2020
2032 - 2065
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2020
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2020
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2020
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2019
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2019
2034 - 2069
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2019
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2018
2028 - 2058
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2018
2025 - 2060
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2018
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2018
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“In terms of rain, heat and sunshine, 2018 is very similar to 2009,” Montrose CEO Hervé Berland recounted. With 75-80% of the property now farmed biodynamically, Montrose had its challenges with mildew in 2018. “Ultimately, dehydration in summer was a bigger factor than mildew when it comes to yields. Our production at Montrose was 25 hectoliters per hectare are opposed to our recent historical average of about 35,” explained Technical Director Vincent Decup.
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2017
2025 - 2047
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2017
2024 - 2050
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2017
2022 - 2045
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Estate manager Hervé Berland was on hand to describe the growing season.“It was an early vintage, bud-break starting on 29 March, with no frost at all. We were lucky. During the beginning of June we had warm conditions for flowering without any disease pressure. June was very hot. This was the only time we saw some hydric stress, but then we had some rainfall. From July to harvest it was mostly fresh with intermittent showers, 15 days with hot temperatures. The weather was changeable. We started the harvest on 12 September and all the parcels were mature around the same time. We picked the crop in 13 days compared to 16 days for the 2016, finishing on 29 September with the final crop around 45hl/ha.” (During my second visit, I was shown a 3D map of the vineyard, blocks manically colored in, as they were picked throughout September to demonstrate the complex pattern of the harvest. If only the real harvest had taken just 30 seconds.We didn’t have to do a lot of sorting because our pickers, who come from Spain, sort the clusters in the vineyard. We use optical sorting that took out only around 1.5% of the fruit but generally there was not too much to sort by the time the fruit reached the reception. This is the first vintage in the new vat-room, which means there are 82 different batches this year, almost double than previous years. It makes it more complicated when you do the blind tastings, which we do five or six times, though it imparts additional precision into the wine. The cuvaison was shorter than usual as the color came easily, around 19 to 21 days whereas usually it is 21 to 23 days. The Merlot was a little affected by the summer, showing less concentration in some parcels that shortened the overall length [of the wine], so the blend is more Cabernet Sauvignon at 76%. We added 12% pressed wine this year. The Grand Vin is matured in 60% new oak and around 35% for the La Dame de Montrose.”
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2017
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2016
2030 - 2075
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2016
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2016
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2016
2026 - 2075
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2015
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2015
2022 - 2045
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These two wines from Montrose are certainly good, but they lack depth and structure that is typical of the strongest vintages.
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2015
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These two wines from Montrose are certainly good, but they lack depth and structure that is typical of the strongest vintages.
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2014
2026 - 2045
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2014
2025 - 2055
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2014
2022 - 2055
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2014
2024 - 2054
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Both wines from Montrose show why Saint-Estèphe is one of the bright spots in 2014. Winemaker Vincent Decup gave the 2014s 21-23 days on the skins and noted that fermentations were slow to finish. Overall, the 2014s at Montrose are remarkably polished and silky. While the tannins are present, they are also nearly buried by the pure intensity of the fruit.
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2014
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I tasted a wide range of wines at Montrose with General Manager Hervé Berland and Winemaker Vincent Decup, including the 2012s and 2011s, which I will be reporting on in a forthcoming article. The 2014s are quite different, as they are wines built on silkiness and the fully mature tannins that are the result of the late-ripening vintage. The harvest took place between September 15 and October 16. Decup gave the 2014s 21-23 days on the skins and noted that fermentations were slow to finish. Overall, the 2014s at Montrose are remarkably polished and silky. While the tannins are present, they are also nearly buried by the pure intensity of the fruit.
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2013
2023 - 2033
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2013
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2013
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Montrose's 2013s are among the most successful wines of the vintage. Merlot was especially challenged here because of poor weather during flowering, which caused considerable coulure and millerandage. As a result the Grand Vin has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon since 1996, a theme readers will see at many estates on the left bank. The Merlots were brought in starting on September 26, while the Cabernets followed beginning on October 7. According to CEO Hervé Berland, the goal was to extract as gently as possible. Fermentations were done at slightly lower temperatures than normal and were also shorter. Readers who are familiar with Montrose know the vineyards border the Gironde. One has to wonder if the proximity to ventilation was a huge help in combatting the outbreak of rot that was widespread in the days leading up to the harvest. Overall, yields are down about 25% across the board.
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2012
2025 - 2042
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2012
2024 - 2052
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2012
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2011
2022 - 2030
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2011
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2011
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2010
2028 - 2065
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2010
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I was delighted when one of our private clients reached out to schedule this celebratory dinner for a small group of friends and co-workers. Our guests took care of the arrangements with Wheeler Farms, and I chose several of my favorite wines, presented in thematic flights. Executive Chef Tom Harder, whom I had first met years ago at Mustard’s prepared a fabulous meal. The hospitality team led by Philip O’Conor and Patrick Memmott took care of every detail of service with the same precision. It was a fabulous night of wine, food and conviviality.
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2010
2025 - 2065
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2010
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2010
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2010
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Also recommended: 2010 La Dame de Montrose Saint-Estephe (85-87).
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2009
2025 - 2060
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2009
2025 - 2060
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2009
2025 - 2060
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2009
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2009
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I may yet be proven wrong, but I find this to be a truly monumental Montrose reminiscent of the '82 or the '61. It is certainly a cleaner and more precise wine than the 1990. Harvesting began on September 17, and this year the technical team did a masterful job of picking grapes with the best possible balance of grape sugar, acidity and tannins. "I saw some of our neighbors harvest their grapes weeks after we did and I remember just wondering," sighed technical director Nicolas Glumineau "We feel very strongly at Montrose about making a classic Bordeaux that is about balance, neither overripe nor jammy." While I'm not sure that Montrose had succeeded in that respect in some recent vintages, they have certainly pulled it off in 2009. Of note, Montrose has just acquired a large swath of vines previously owned by Phelan-Segur, but which was originally part of the Montrose property until well into the 19th century. Also recommended: 2009 La Dame de Montrose Saint-Estephe (85-87).
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2008
2020 - 2050
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There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way on my first day. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
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2008
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2008
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2007
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2007
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When I mentioned to technical director Nicolas Glumineau that I thought the 2006 Montrose had been underextracted, perhaps due to the fact that new director Jean-Bernard Delmas, who ran Chateau Haut-Brion for more than 40 years, was just getting comfortable with St. Estephe fruit, he responded that that was probably not the reason for the relative lightness of this wine. "Perhaps we picked too early," he admitted. "And 2007 was really the first year for the new team here. The biggest change with the new team is at harvest time. We're paying more attention to maturity in the vineyard. There's really a two-week delay between the harvest in the Graves and up here in St. Estephe. This year we took our time and waited for the cabernet sauvignon to ripen. Previously we picked in 12 days straight here, but in 2007 we took a full three weeks. And we feel that a daily pumpover equivalent to the volume of the wine is enough to extract smooth, silky tannins. Under the old regime, the daily pumpover here was four times the volume of the wine." Glumineau went on to describe 2007 as a delicate wine in a delicate year: supple, soft and sweet, with good vinosity.
00
2006
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2006
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When I mentioned to technical director Nicolas Glumineau that I thought the 2006 Montrose had been underextracted, perhaps due to the fact that new director Jean-Bernard Delmas, who ran Chateau Haut-Brion for more than 40 years, was just getting comfortable with St. Estephe fruit, he responded that that was probably not the reason for the relative lightness of this wine. "Perhaps we picked too early," he admitted. "And 2007 was really the first year for the new team here. The biggest change with the new team is at harvest time. We're paying more attention to maturity in the vineyard. There's really a two-week delay between the harvest in the Graves and up here in St. Estephe. This year we took our time and waited for the cabernet sauvignon to ripen. Previously we picked in 12 days straight here, but in 2007 we took a full three weeks. And we feel that a daily pumpover equivalent to the volume of the wine is enough to extract smooth, silky tannins. Under the old regime, the daily pumpover here was four times the volume of the wine." Glumineau went on to describe 2007 as a delicate wine in a delicate year: supple, soft and sweet, with good vinosity.
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2006
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The new owners of this fabled chateau installed Jean-Bernard Delmas, who ran Chateau Haut-Brion for more than 40 years, as director. It remains to be seen if the streak of winners made here in recent vintages under ex-regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue will continue-and if the style of Montrose will change. The 2006 struck me as a bit underextracted, at least in the context of the St. Estephe appellation-certainly well-made but correct rather than exciting. Or was this simply a function of the difficulties of the vintage in the Northern Medoc, which by most accounts received more rain than vineyards farther to the south? The merlot was harvested fairly early here, between September 18 and 22, with the cabernet coming in between September 27 and October 3. The team green-harvested the entire property in 2006 for the first time, according to Delmas. The grand vin represents a 60% selection.
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2005
2025 - 2055
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2005
2025 - 2065
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2005
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When I mentioned to technical director Nicolas Glumineau that I thought the 2006 Montrose had been underextracted, perhaps due to the fact that new director Jean-Bernard Delmas, who ran Chateau Haut-Brion for more than 40 years, was just getting comfortable with St. Estephe fruit, he responded that that was probably not the reason for the relative lightness of this wine. "Perhaps we picked too early," he admitted. "And 2007 was really the first year for the new team here. The biggest change with the new team is at harvest time. We're paying more attention to maturity in the vineyard. There's really a two-week delay between the harvest in the Graves and up here in St. Estephe. This year we took our time and waited for the cabernet sauvignon to ripen. Previously we picked in 12 days straight here, but in 2007 we took a full three weeks. And we feel that a daily pumpover equivalent to the volume of the wine is enough to extract smooth, silky tannins. Under the old regime, the daily pumpover here was four times the volume of the wine." Glumineau went on to describe 2007 as a delicate wine in a delicate year: supple, soft and sweet, with good vinosity.
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2005
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This superb chateau, in the process of being sold to a French industrialist, has made a tannic, long-aging 2005 with an IPT reading similar to that of the estate's massive 2003, but with a lower pH and equal potential longevity. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the 2005 vintage as "like 2004 but with more of everything." The young 2005 has puzzled many early tasters, as it's so fine-grained it feels almost weightless, and its density is not obvious. The wine was also quite youthfully austere in early April, conveying a strong impression of minerality.
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2004
2024 - 2040
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2004
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The new owners of this fabled chateau installed Jean-Bernard Delmas, who ran Chateau Haut-Brion for more than 40 years, as director. It remains to be seen if the streak of winners made here in recent vintages under ex-regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue will continue-and if the style of Montrose will change. The 2006 struck me as a bit underextracted, at least in the context of the St. Estephe appellation-certainly well-made but correct rather than exciting. Or was this simply a function of the difficulties of the vintage in the Northern Medoc, which by most accounts received more rain than vineyards farther to the south? The merlot was harvested fairly early here, between September 18 and 22, with the cabernet coming in between September 27 and October 3. The team green-harvested the entire property in 2006 for the first time, according to Delmas. The grand vin represents a 60% selection.
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2004
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This superb chateau, in the process of being sold to a French industrialist, has made a tannic, long-aging 2005 with an IPT reading similar to that of the estate's massive 2003, but with a lower pH and equal potential longevity. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the 2005 vintage as "like 2004 but with more of everything." The young 2005 has puzzled many early tasters, as it's so fine-grained it feels almost weightless, and its density is not obvious. The wine was also quite youthfully austere in early April, conveying a strong impression of minerality.
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2004
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This chateau has been on a roll in the new millennium, and the 2004 is once again a superstar of the vintage. According to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, 2004 is a surprising vintage, in which "the maturity was made in September." He explained: "During the magnificent September, warm days and cool nights eliminated any possibility of rot. We feared dilution due to the big crop [57 hectoliters per hectare], but although the clusters were huge, the individual grapes were of a normal size. There was a lot of concentration of color and tannins. The wines are supple and fat, not austere, with the tannins more elegant than those of the 2002."
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2003
2025 - 2045
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2003
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This superb chateau, in the process of being sold to a French industrialist, has made a tannic, long-aging 2005 with an IPT reading similar to that of the estate's massive 2003, but with a lower pH and equal potential longevity. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the 2005 vintage as "like 2004 but with more of everything." The young 2005 has puzzled many early tasters, as it's so fine-grained it feels almost weightless, and its density is not obvious. The wine was also quite youthfully austere in early April, conveying a strong impression of minerality.
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2003
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This chateau has been on a roll in the new millennium, and the 2004 is once again a superstar of the vintage. According to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, 2004 is a surprising vintage, in which "the maturity was made in September." He explained: "During the magnificent September, warm days and cool nights eliminated any possibility of rot. We feared dilution due to the big crop [57 hectoliters per hectare], but although the clusters were huge, the individual grapes were of a normal size. There was a lot of concentration of color and tannins. The wines are supple and fat, not austere, with the tannins more elegant than those of the 2002."
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2003
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Montrose was the third visit on the first morning of my tour of Bordeaux, and I can't say that I tasted a better wine during my entire time in the region. What Montrose showed in early spring that no other 2003 could quite match was a powerful, energetic attack and then no letup at all right through to its extraordinary, gripping, expanding finish. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue told me the 2003 Montrose was fatter and richer than the extraordinary 1996, with an IPT even higher than that earlier gem (at least 85!). "It's a wine of sunshine, not surmaturite," he told me. Grape sugars ranged from 13.2% to 13.9%, the highest since 1990, a year that Laguarigue has always described as atypically ripe for the chateau and a bit over the top. "The 2003 combines the charm and opulence of the '89 with the classic quality of '96," he summarized. Interestingly, the yield here was about 34 hectoliters per hectare, or about the same as that of the previous year. Bargain-hunters will want to look for this estate's second wine, Les Dames de Montrose, which at the end of March showed a middle-palate lushness of texture and sweetness that should give it considerable early appeal.
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2002
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This chateau has been on a roll in the new millennium, and the 2004 is once again a superstar of the vintage. According to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, 2004 is a surprising vintage, in which "the maturity was made in September." He explained: "During the magnificent September, warm days and cool nights eliminated any possibility of rot. We feared dilution due to the big crop [57 hectoliters per hectare], but although the clusters were huge, the individual grapes were of a normal size. There was a lot of concentration of color and tannins. The wines are supple and fat, not austere, with the tannins more elegant than those of the 2002."
00
2002
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Montrose was the third visit on the first morning of my tour of Bordeaux, and I can't say that I tasted a better wine during my entire time in the region. What Montrose showed in early spring that no other 2003 could quite match was a powerful, energetic attack and then no letup at all right through to its extraordinary, gripping, expanding finish. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue told me the 2003 Montrose was fatter and richer than the extraordinary 1996, with an IPT even higher than that earlier gem (at least 85!). "It's a wine of sunshine, not surmaturite," he told me. Grape sugars ranged from 13.2% to 13.9%, the highest since 1990, a year that Laguarigue has always described as atypically ripe for the chateau and a bit over the top. "The 2003 combines the charm and opulence of the '89 with the classic quality of '96," he summarized. Interestingly, the yield here was about 34 hectoliters per hectare, or about the same as that of the previous year. Bargain-hunters will want to look for this estate's second wine, Les Dames de Montrose, which at the end of March showed a middle-palate lushness of texture and sweetness that should give it considerable early appeal.
00
2002
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This chateau's 2002 has 3.7 grams per liter of acidity, compared to a normal 3.3, according to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, who noted that it had plenty of buffering richness. Yields here were just 33 hectoliters per hectare, with millerandage, especially in the older vines, resulting in small grapes with less juice than usual.
00
2001
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Montrose was the third visit on the first morning of my tour of Bordeaux, and I can't say that I tasted a better wine during my entire time in the region. What Montrose showed in early spring that no other 2003 could quite match was a powerful, energetic attack and then no letup at all right through to its extraordinary, gripping, expanding finish. Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue told me the 2003 Montrose was fatter and richer than the extraordinary 1996, with an IPT even higher than that earlier gem (at least 85!). "It's a wine of sunshine, not surmaturite," he told me. Grape sugars ranged from 13.2% to 13.9%, the highest since 1990, a year that Laguarigue has always described as atypically ripe for the chateau and a bit over the top. "The 2003 combines the charm and opulence of the '89 with the classic quality of '96," he summarized. Interestingly, the yield here was about 34 hectoliters per hectare, or about the same as that of the previous year. Bargain-hunters will want to look for this estate's second wine, Les Dames de Montrose, which at the end of March showed a middle-palate lushness of texture and sweetness that should give it considerable early appeal.
00
2001
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This chateau's 2002 has 3.7 grams per liter of acidity, compared to a normal 3.3, according to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, who noted that it had plenty of buffering richness. Yields here were just 33 hectoliters per hectare, with millerandage, especially in the older vines, resulting in small grapes with less juice than usual.
00
2001
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The crop level at this estate was a very low 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2001 (compared to 42 in 2000), as the merlot yields were reduced drastically by problems during the flowering. The vintage was easy to vinify, according to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue; extraction was generally similar to that practiced in 2000, but the total cuvaison time was three or four days shorter. Still, he says, the 2001 is very closed, with austere tannins, and is marked by its cabernet sauvignon component.
00
2000
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This chateau's 2002 has 3.7 grams per liter of acidity, compared to a normal 3.3, according to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue, who noted that it had plenty of buffering richness. Yields here were just 33 hectoliters per hectare, with millerandage, especially in the older vines, resulting in small grapes with less juice than usual.
00
2000
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The crop level at this estate was a very low 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2001 (compared to 42 in 2000), as the merlot yields were reduced drastically by problems during the flowering. The vintage was easy to vinify, according to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue; extraction was generally similar to that practiced in 2000, but the total cuvaison time was three or four days shorter. Still, he says, the 2001 is very closed, with austere tannins, and is marked by its cabernet sauvignon component.
00
2000
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The 2000 harvest was a rare bird in that it brought a similar high level of quality for both merlot and cabernet, noted regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue. "It makes us think of 1970," he added. "There less surmaturite in 2000 than in 1990, and the 2000 merlot is more complex than that of 1996." The pH is in the high 3.8-3.9 range, but acidity levels are actually higher than those of either '99 or '98, notes Laguarigue. The yield in 2000 was a moderate 41 hectoliters per hectare, down from 48 the previous year. Montrose's second wine, La Dame de Montrose, is frequently very good value.
00
1999
2019 - 2033
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00
1999
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The crop level at this estate was a very low 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2001 (compared to 42 in 2000), as the merlot yields were reduced drastically by problems during the flowering. The vintage was easy to vinify, according to regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue; extraction was generally similar to that practiced in 2000, but the total cuvaison time was three or four days shorter. Still, he says, the 2001 is very closed, with austere tannins, and is marked by its cabernet sauvignon component.
00
1999
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The 2000 harvest was a rare bird in that it brought a similar high level of quality for both merlot and cabernet, noted regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue. "It makes us think of 1970," he added. "There less surmaturite in 2000 than in 1990, and the 2000 merlot is more complex than that of 1996." The pH is in the high 3.8-3.9 range, but acidity levels are actually higher than those of either '99 or '98, notes Laguarigue. The yield in 2000 was a moderate 41 hectoliters per hectare, down from 48 the previous year. Montrose's second wine, La Dame de Montrose, is frequently very good value.
00
1999
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Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the '99 Montrose as fatter than the '98, with higher tannins levels, higher alcohol and higher pH. Following substantial eclaircissage (crop thinning) in the merlot vines, the estate got fairly even ripeness, harvesting on September 16 before the worst of the rain. In contrast to the majority of chateaux I visited, Montrose did more extraction than average with the '99 crop: while the tannins in the fat, expressive Dames de Montrose are a bit rustic, those in the grand vin do not seem to be overdone.
00
1998
2018 - 2035
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00
1998
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The 2000 harvest was a rare bird in that it brought a similar high level of quality for both merlot and cabernet, noted regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue. "It makes us think of 1970," he added. "There less surmaturite in 2000 than in 1990, and the 2000 merlot is more complex than that of 1996." The pH is in the high 3.8-3.9 range, but acidity levels are actually higher than those of either '99 or '98, notes Laguarigue. The yield in 2000 was a moderate 41 hectoliters per hectare, down from 48 the previous year. Montrose's second wine, La Dame de Montrose, is frequently very good value.
00
1998
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Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the '99 Montrose as fatter than the '98, with higher tannins levels, higher alcohol and higher pH. Following substantial eclaircissage (crop thinning) in the merlot vines, the estate got fairly even ripeness, harvesting on September 16 before the worst of the rain. In contrast to the majority of chateaux I visited, Montrose did more extraction than average with the '99 crop: while the tannins in the fat, expressive Dames de Montrose are a bit rustic, those in the grand vin do not seem to be overdone.
00
1998
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"Not an easy style of Montrose" is the way regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the new '98, a wine made from a near-typical blend of 62% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 8% cabernet franc and petit verdot. Incidentally, Laguarigue claims that the '98 Dames de Montrose is more powerful than the '96 (despite including 45% merlot), but at the level of the grand vin the '96 is in a class of its own.
00
1997
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Regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the '99 Montrose as fatter than the '98, with higher tannins levels, higher alcohol and higher pH. Following substantial eclaircissage (crop thinning) in the merlot vines, the estate got fairly even ripeness, harvesting on September 16 before the worst of the rain. In contrast to the majority of chateaux I visited, Montrose did more extraction than average with the '99 crop: while the tannins in the fat, expressive Dames de Montrose are a bit rustic, those in the grand vin do not seem to be overdone.
00
1997
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"Not an easy style of Montrose" is the way regisseur Philippe de Laguarigue describes the new '98, a wine made from a near-typical blend of 62% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 8% cabernet franc and petit verdot. Incidentally, Laguarigue claims that the '98 Dames de Montrose is more powerful than the '96 (despite including 45% merlot), but at the level of the grand vin the '96 is in a class of its own.
00
1997
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Proprietor Jean-Louis Charmolue compares his '97 Montrose to the '93, "but it is more concentrated. And it certainly a lighter wine than the '96, without that year's aging potential." Still, he adds, the wine is ripe, and even the '94 is in a tougher style. Only 45% of the estate's production went into the grand vin in '97, and the blend features considerably more merlot than the previous year. The '96 Montrose, incidentally, continues to look like a classic vintage for fans of this wine, and much more typical than the freakishly ripe 1990. "1996 was not an especially hot year," notes Charmolue, "but the wine features ripe tannins and managed to retain aromatic freshness." Charmolue compares the '96-"the best vintage since I've been here"-to the 1928 and 1929 made on this property.
00
1996
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Proprietor Jean-Louis Charmolue compares his '97 Montrose to the '93, "but it is more concentrated. And it certainly a lighter wine than the '96, without that year's aging potential." Still, he adds, the wine is ripe, and even the '94 is in a tougher style. Only 45% of the estate's production went into the grand vin in '97, and the blend features considerably more merlot than the previous year. The '96 Montrose, incidentally, continues to look like a classic vintage for fans of this wine, and much more typical than the freakishly ripe 1990. "1996 was not an especially hot year," notes Charmolue, "but the wine features ripe tannins and managed to retain aromatic freshness." Charmolue compares the '96-"the best vintage since I've been here"-to the 1928 and 1929 made on this property.
00
1995
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Proprietor Jean-Louis Charmolue compares his '97 Montrose to the '93, "but it is more concentrated. And it certainly a lighter wine than the '96, without that year's aging potential." Still, he adds, the wine is ripe, and even the '94 is in a tougher style. Only 45% of the estate's production went into the grand vin in '97, and the blend features considerably more merlot than the previous year. The '96 Montrose, incidentally, continues to look like a classic vintage for fans of this wine, and much more typical than the freakishly ripe 1990. "1996 was not an especially hot year," notes Charmolue, "but the wine features ripe tannins and managed to retain aromatic freshness." Charmolue compares the '96-"the best vintage since I've been here"-to the 1928 and 1929 made on this property.
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1995
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Interestingly, Jean-Louis Charmolüe did a shorter cuvaison in '95 than in '94 to preserve the freshness of the wine and to avoid getting astringent tannins. There was plenty of early extraction at warm temperatures. Charmolüe describes '94 as "classic, with firm tannins," while '95 saw riper fruit and more finesse. The cabernet franc in '95 ripened enough to contribute body, rather than merely elegance, to the wine. In comparison, the superripe '90 was "hors norme." I continue to like the '94 Montrose, but the '95 offers more texture and length. Chaptalization was about one degree in '95, vs. a degree and a half in '94. Incidentally, Montrose's second wine, La Dame de Montrose, is extremely appealing in both vintages, and is likely to offer good value.
00
1994
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Interestingly, Jean-Louis Charmolüe did a shorter cuvaison in '95 than in '94 to preserve the freshness of the wine and to avoid getting astringent tannins. There was plenty of early extraction at warm temperatures. Charmolüe describes '94 as "classic, with firm tannins," while '95 saw riper fruit and more finesse. The cabernet franc in '95 ripened enough to contribute body, rather than merely elegance, to the wine. In comparison, the superripe '90 was "hors norme." I continue to like the '94 Montrose, but the '95 offers more texture and length. Chaptalization was about one degree in '95, vs. a degree and a half in '94. Incidentally, Montrose's second wine, La Dame de Montrose, is extremely appealing in both vintages, and is likely to offer good value.
00
1992
2022 - 2027
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00
1990
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1990
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1990
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00
1989
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1989
2019 - 2050
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1988
2018 - 2023
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1984
2024 - 2030
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1983
2023 - 2026
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1982
2024 - 2038
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It had taken five years since opening for me to dine at Zoldering, and it lived up to expectations. Zoldering is really everything you could want in a restaurant unless you crave a luxurious setting or boundary-busting cooking. It’s not that kind of place. This is where you come to meet friends, chill out, drink great wines and eat delicious, well-executed food that you will want to eat again.
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1982
2022 - 2032
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1982
2019 - 2029
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1982
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1979
2021 - 2025
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It was a pleasure to get back out again and revisit one of central London’s dining secrets. Anyone with an interest in South African wine should make a beeline for High Timber, which should reopen fully from May 17.
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1979
2019 - 2023
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1974
2023 - 2028
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1971
2022 - 2032
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This was a suitable epic dinner. It was pleasing to see Tristan recovering from the pandemic and firing on all cylinders. God knows what fellow diners thought about the performance in the corner table. But hopefully they could see that we were enjoying ourselves, something that had been denied so many of us in previous months.
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1971
2021 - 2025
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1964
2024 - 2040
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1961
2019 - 2030
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1961
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1959
2019 - 2030
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1958
2018 - 2025
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1952
2022 - 2030
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1949
2019 - 2030
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1945
2020 - 2028
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1934
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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