2009 Gabbro

Suvereto is one of the warmer microclimates in the Tuscan Maremma. Proprietor Fabio Chiarelotto succeeded in capturing the best elements of these sites while also shaping his wines with a level of finesse that is remarkable. The 2009s are fabulous, especially within the context of the year. Chiarelotto decided against bottling the Nardo, because many of the Sangiovese and Montepulciano vineyards struggled with the intense heat. The fruit he was able to salvage went into the Eneo, which helps explain why that wine is such a standout. The 2010s were stunning when I tasted them from barrel last summer. Readers can get an early peek at the vintage with the 2010 A Quo, a wine that delivers absurdly high quality for the money.