2020 Sauvignon Zitelle

Anyone who follows the Miani wines has likely heard stories about how visiting with Enzo Pontoni means making an appointment at the end of the day, when he’s coming back in from the vineyards, as this is a man that takes what he does in the fields very seriously. What you don’t often hear about, is how the winery itself, located in Friuli Colli Orientali, is nearly unrecognizable from the outside. In fact, all you’ll see are tractors and machine parts parked in a garage, being worked on and maintained by a team of rugged men. It is only when Pontoni returns from his vineyards in Buttrio or Rosazzo, with soil-stained hands, and takes you through an unmarked industrial door, down into the barrel-aging room, that you realize how misleading the exterior of this building really is. Because beneath the garage facade is a room that holds the treasured vintages of Miani’s elixirs that drive collectors wild. Don’t get me wrong, even the barrel-aging room is utilitarian, as Enzo Pontoni needs it only to complete the purpose of refining young wines. The experience continues when you move to the tasting room, which is yet again another shed, which on a cold night in January, is also quite uncomfortable. It’s when you sit and begin to taste that the pieces all begin to fall into place; there are no secrets here. This is not some winemaker who has achieved cult status and in return they live some pampered life behind the scenes. No, Pontoni lives a life amongst the vines and making wine is his passion. Making them the best that they can be, is his mission. The next time you are sipping a Miani, with its rich, almost heady aromas, sleek textures and all of the acidity and minerality to balance, just imagine Enzo Pontoni heading to another hard day of work, and just how much of himself that he puts into these wines.