2006 Merlot Buri

This was my first visit to Miani where Enzo Pontoni and his team weren’t still in the fields working when I arrived. I always schedule Miani at the end of the day, knowing how devoted this team is to their work. An added bonus to having them at the winery was that the wood-burning stove had also nicely warmed the tasting room. As mentioned last year, Pontoni has decided to release his selection of wines a year later so they will be more integrated and rested in bottle, making the 2021s his current releases. I’m absolutely smitten with these wines. While from a warm and dry vintage, their balance is impeccable, with the Sauvignon Casa Rossa leading the pack. This tasting also included the Merlot Filip and Buri from 2020. Let’s just say that they were worth waiting for. Anyone who doubts the importance of Merlot in Friuli need only visit this address for a tasting. As for 2022, there are a number of wines that Pontoni decided not to produce because of the growing conditions. He described it as a “two-faced vintage because the vines suffered in some young vineyards due to the drought and warmer conditions.” There will not be any Sauvignon Casa Rossa, Sauvignon Zitelle or Sauvignon Saurint. Only an estate Friulano and Chardonnay (notes included here) and Chardonnay Baracca, which I’ll be able to taste next year. The willingness to declassify wines and strive only for the absolute best in every vintage sets Miani apart. This remains one of the absolute best estates, not just in Friuli, but in all of Italy.

A recent thoroughly magical night of a large selection of younger and older Miani wines at London’s fine Enoteca Turi made for some long-lasting wine and dining memories.

These new releases from Miani and proprietor Enzo Pontoni show that Friuli’s most inspired, quality-obsessed grower continues to push the boundaries with brilliant whites and reds that showcase the pedigree of the region’s best sites.

Miani fans have a lot to look forward to this year. Enzo Pontoni is releasing the first wines from his new Zitelle property. There are numerous other developments taking place at this tiny, garage-like winery in the heart of Friuli’s Colli Orientali as well. One of Friuli’s most ambitious growers, Pontoni is not resting on his laurels, but rather pushing ahead with his usual drive, total obsession for perfection and passion for the land. The best time to catch Pontoni is still at the end of the day or when it is raining. Otherwise, he pretty much spends every waking hour, except for lunch, in the field.

These new releases from Miani and proprietor Enzo Pontoni show that Friuli’s most inspired, quality-obsessed grower continues to push the boundaries with brilliant whites and reds that showcase the pedigree of the region’s best sites.

Miani fans have a lot to look forward to this year. Enzo Pontoni is releasing the first wines from his new Zitelle property. There are numerous other developments taking place at this tiny, garage-like winery in the heart of Friuli’s Colli Orientali as well. One of Friuli’s most ambitious growers, Pontoni is not resting on his laurels, but rather pushing ahead with his usual drive, total obsession for perfection and passion for the land. The best time to catch Pontoni is still at the end of the day or when it is raining. Otherwise, he pretty much spends every waking hour, except for lunch, in the field.

Enzo Pontoni continues to make some of the richest, most daring wines in Friuli. Vintages 2011 and 2012 have been challenging, largely because of heat and lack of water. Production is down. Miani fans will note the absence of a few wines in both vintages that weren't bottled because Pontoni did not feel they were up to his exacting standards. I have to wonder if Pontoni's pursuit of low yields is at some point a hindrance given a general trend towards warmer growing seasons that makes it hard for Pontoni to make the tense, energetic, mineral-driven wines he seeks. Although the Miani wines are incredibly appealing young, both the whites and reds benefit from time in bottle. The 2011 whites are just starting to drink now, while the 2012s need at least another year in bottle. A recent magnum of the 2009 Sauvignon Banel was exceptional, with perfumes that literally filled the room as the bottle was being poured. Readers might also enjoy this short video covering a handful of these new releases .

Miani is one of the crown jewels in the world of wine. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni excels with a range of both whites and reds that are typically monumental. That is the good news. The bad news is that Pontoni releases a mere 8,000 bottles from 18 hectares of vineyards, which means the wines are very hard to source. Yields are tiny and selection is Draconian, first in the vineyards and later in the cellar, where Pontoni is especially demanding when it comes what goes into the bottle. Last year I reported on a once in a lifetime vertical of Miani's Merlot. This time around the focus was on the estate's rarest wine, Calvari. Once again the results were stratospheric. I also had a chance to preview the 2009s, which have developed beautifully since I started following them in the vineyards last summer. Miani's wines are always nearly impossible to find, but in 2009 they are worth the extra effort.

Calvari is made from Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, an indigenous Friulian red grape that in Pontoni's hands scales heights previously thought to be unimaginable. In his first vintages Pontoni made just one barrel of Calvari, although more recently production has doubled to a whopping two barrels. The estate's Refosco vineyards are located in Buttrio, one of the most picturesque villages in Friuli once you get off the main drag and travel through the unpaved roads behind the center of town. Over the last few years I have become convinced that Buttrio holds some of the noblest terroirs in northern Italy for fine, world-class whites and reds. Sadly, the number of growers who are maximizing the potential of these superb sites is but a handful. Consider that the commune of Buttrio encompasses approximately 200 hectares of vineyards. That number grows to 250 when you include the vineyards of neighboring Premariacco and Manzano that share a boundary with Buttrio. Of these 250 hectares, roughly 100 are prime, hillside plots, yet few producers are making wines that are worthy of these vineyards. But that is a story for another day. Pontoni's Refosco holdings are composed of two contiguous pre-World War II parcels on steep terraces with a total surface area of less than a hectare. These are some of the most beautiful, pristine vineyards I have ever seen. Refosco is a naturally vigorous, rustic grape that Pontoni has tamed (as much as possible) through meticulous work in the vineyard. Most growers, even those who pay strict attention to yields, could produce 4,000 bottles or so from these plots – Pontoni makes 600. In many ways, this tasting encompassed the entirety of Pontoni's experience with Refosco, as he has pretty much wrought every ounce of potential from the grape. Not surprisingly, Pontoni is planting Merlot, a variety he considers far nobler, in all of his newer vineyards.

History buffs may remember that Miani made a simple Refosco meant to be enjoyed young in the early years spanning 1990-1992. There was no Refosco in 1993 and 1994. The first vintage of Calvari was 1995 and the wine has been made every year since then except 2000 and 2005, both of which were compromised by hail. Over the years Pontoni has gradually moved to harvesting slightly earlier than he did in the 1990s in order to preserve more freshness in the wines. Calvari is always aged in 100% new French oak, all of which it carries with grace. A number of vintages were tasted from magnum, a format that is not available commercially, although I am told that may change this year.

Miani is one of Italy's cult properties, and with good reason. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni crafts some of the most profound, monumental wines readers are likely to come across. The range includes a number of compelling whites, two phenomenal Merlots and an equally majestic Refosco, the legendary Rosso Calvari, all made in miniscule quantities. Incredibly, this was the first comprehensive vertical tasting Pontoni had ever held of his Merlots. Because bottles have become extremely scarce – even in Pontoni's own cellar – a number of wines were tasted from magnum, a format that is not commercially available. To say this was unforgettable tasting would be a colossal understatement, as the wines were brilliant in every way.

Enzo Pontoni represents the very finest of the Italian vigneron spirit. Originally trained as an engineer, Pontoni spent the first part of his career working in many of Italy's largest cities, a cosmopolitan life that seems like another world compared to these humble, agrarian surroundings. Shake his hand though, and it is clear Pontoni is a man of the land. Despite his lack of formal training, Pontoni seems to be blessed with a prodigious, innate talent for understanding his vineyards. He is intensely critical of his own wines to a degree I have rarely seen in another producer and his excruciatingly high standards are the stuff of legend in the parts. The wines only go into bottle when Pontoni feels they are exceptional. Accordingly, there was no Merlot in 1995, 1996, 2003 or 2005. Virtually all of the emphasis at Miani is on the vineyards. Pontoni's philosophy relies on old vines, tiny yields and a maniacal dedication to the land. The winemaking facilities and cellar are as stripped-down as possible. Among the items of interest are several farming tools Pontoni designed and built on his own. Otherwise, the winery itself is unremarkable. Pontoni farms a number of tiny Merlot parcels in the towns of Rosazzo and Buttrio, both in the Colli Orientali appellation in Friuli. The early Merlots were made from a combination of fruit from Rosazzo and Buttrio, but in 2004 Pontoni began experimenting with bottling the wines separately; giving birth to his Merlots Filip (Rosazzo) and Buri (Buttrio). The Filip is generally rounder and more immediate while the Buri is firmer, fresher and more structured, with greater overall complexity. I consider the Merlot Buri to be one of the most profound expressions of Merlot on the planet.

Pontoni's first commercial release was 1987. The early reds were made in a relatively fresh style. It would be a few years, until 1993 or so, before Pontoni's work in the vineyards would give him the raw materials to make the style of rich, complex wines consumers are familiar with today. In the following years Pontoni sought a super-ripe style supported by lengthy periods of aging in new oak, an approach that was in fashion throughout Italy during the mid to late 1990s. Since then he has moved to slightly earlier harvests, gentler extractions and reduced the period of oak aging, all choices that have left the wines with more freshness, detail and textural elegance than was sometimes the case in the past. Pontoni's Merlots are still building their track records, but judging by this and other tastings, they are more than living up to the potential my high scores have suggested over the years.

A recent thoroughly magical night of a large selection of younger and older Miani wines at London’s fine Enoteca Turi made for some long-lasting wine and dining memories.

Miani is one of Italy's cult properties, and with good reason. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni crafts some of the most profound, monumental wines readers are likely to come across. The range includes a number of compelling whites, two phenomenal Merlots and an equally majestic Refosco, the legendary Rosso Calvari, all made in miniscule quantities. Incredibly, this was the first comprehensive vertical tasting Pontoni had ever held of his Merlots. Because bottles have become extremely scarce – even in Pontoni's own cellar – a number of wines were tasted from magnum, a format that is not commercially available. To say this was unforgettable tasting would be a colossal understatement, as the wines were brilliant in every way.

Enzo Pontoni represents the very finest of the Italian vigneron spirit. Originally trained as an engineer, Pontoni spent the first part of his career working in many of Italy's largest cities, a cosmopolitan life that seems like another world compared to these humble, agrarian surroundings. Shake his hand though, and it is clear Pontoni is a man of the land. Despite his lack of formal training, Pontoni seems to be blessed with a prodigious, innate talent for understanding his vineyards. He is intensely critical of his own wines to a degree I have rarely seen in another producer and his excruciatingly high standards are the stuff of legend in the parts. The wines only go into bottle when Pontoni feels they are exceptional. Accordingly, there was no Merlot in 1995, 1996, 2003 or 2005. Virtually all of the emphasis at Miani is on the vineyards. Pontoni's philosophy relies on old vines, tiny yields and a maniacal dedication to the land. The winemaking facilities and cellar are as stripped-down as possible. Among the items of interest are several farming tools Pontoni designed and built on his own. Otherwise, the winery itself is unremarkable. Pontoni farms a number of tiny Merlot parcels in the towns of Rosazzo and Buttrio, both in the Colli Orientali appellation in Friuli. The early Merlots were made from a combination of fruit from Rosazzo and Buttrio, but in 2004 Pontoni began experimenting with bottling the wines separately; giving birth to his Merlots Filip (Rosazzo) and Buri (Buttrio). The Filip is generally rounder and more immediate while the Buri is firmer, fresher and more structured, with greater overall complexity. I consider the Merlot Buri to be one of the most profound expressions of Merlot on the planet.

Pontoni's first commercial release was 1987. The early reds were made in a relatively fresh style. It would be a few years, until 1993 or so, before Pontoni's work in the vineyards would give him the raw materials to make the style of rich, complex wines consumers are familiar with today. In the following years Pontoni sought a super-ripe style supported by lengthy periods of aging in new oak, an approach that was in fashion throughout Italy during the mid to late 1990s. Since then he has moved to slightly earlier harvests, gentler extractions and reduced the period of oak aging, all choices that have left the wines with more freshness, detail and textural elegance than was sometimes the case in the past. Pontoni's Merlots are still building their track records, but judging by this and other tastings, they are more than living up to the potential my high scores have suggested over the years.

It took me several years to get an appointment at Miani. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni literally lives in his vineyards, stopping home only for lunch and dinner. Pontoni represents the finest of the artisanal approach to winemaking and his meticulous, some would say fanatical, devotion to his old-vine plots is legendary. Once the wines are in the cellar a strict barrel selection takes place prior to bottling, meaning that the estate releases a total of roughly 8,000 bottles. Pontoni's 2006 whites have come together nicely since I first tasted them in barrel in December 2006. Readers fortunate enough to find this producer's superb 2004 whites should not hesitate to do so as they are terrific although his 2005s, from a much weaker vintage, are less satisfying. Pontoni's reds are equally breathtaking, as these 2003s and 2004s attest. The only problem will be finding them as quantities are minuscule. Pontoni told me that as he has gotten older he has moved away from the purely massive style that characterized some of his earlier wines (like the legendary 1997 Calvari) towards a more finessed, elegant approach. I can't think of too many wines I would rather have on my dinner table than those of Enzo Pontoni and Miani. These are among the finest wines being made anywhere. Those who think Tocai Friulano isn't capable of producing world-class wines need to taste Miani's 2006s.