2007 Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda

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The Massolino family, whose cellar is located in the dead center of the historic village of Serralunga, owns 23 hectares of vines (22 of them in Serralunga), including 11 prime hectares in Serralunga's top Barolo crus.Franco Massolino, who is in charge of winemaking here, with his brother Roberto responsible for the vineyards, describes his approach as traditional.The fermentation itself lasts for 12 to 15 days "at moderate temperatures," with the single-vineyard wines spending about three weeks on their skins (four in the case of the Vigna Rionda).He does pumpovers and punchdowns and told me he plans to experiment with submerged cap.The wines are then aged in large oak barrels and bottled the third summer after the harvest.Massolino described vintage 2009 as "warm but not like 2007" and told me that 2010 was "one of my greatest vintages."With their extensive well-placed holdings in Serralunga, whose late-ripening vines have been privileged by global warming, the Massolinos' star should continue to rise.

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2013 - 2022

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I have to admit, this is a puzzling set of wines from Massolino. The 2009 Barolos are pretty but also quite frail and lacking in mid-palate depth. Like so many wines in this vintage, they lack some color and look to be built for near and medium-term drinking. Unfortunately, the 2007 Vigna Rionda is equally disappointing relative to its historical track record.

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2019 - 2032

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This is a fabulous set of Baroli from brothers Roberto and Franco Massolino. The wines capture the essence of the vintage – while not being excessively marked by the year – in the house's classic, firm style. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are done in cement and the wines are aged exclusively in large, neutral casks.

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