1998 Pavillon Rouge

"Nineteen ninety-eight was one of the most surprising vintages I've ever witnessed," reported manager Paul Pontallier. "I was very optimistic in August but then much less optimistic at harvest time due to the rains. I expected the wine to be thinner, drier, diluted. But the grapes were ripe at fairly low alcohol levels, and I've been amazed by the concentration and density the wine shows today." Tannin levels were very high in '98, as high as in '95, says Pontallier, adding that only 1986 had more tannins. The estate did some saignee but does not use other techniques for concentrating the juice. "The potential alcohol level was too low to match the power of the wine, so chaptalization was a better approach. Using other methods of concentrating the wine would have risked concentrating the tough tannins as well, and the wine could have turned out too harsh." Pontallier describes the young '98 as between '95 and '86 in style, with gentler, rounder tannins than the '86 but more austere than the '95.