2003 Grüner Veltliner Spiegel
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Signs are still evident of the floodwaters that engulfed the Mantlerhof in August 2002, but the winemaking did not miss a beat. Success here in 2003 was mixed. "It was especially difficult this year," says Margit Mantler (who showed me the wines in her husband's absence) "to achieve even ripeness, and we had to make four different passes through the roter veltliner, for example, to get anything close to uniform color. " The Mantlers, incidentally, are converting to biodynamic practices and expect their wines to be officially "bio" from 2006. (Terry Theise Estate Selections; imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY) Also recommended: 2003 Roter Veltliner Reisenthal Selection.