2006 Pinot Noir Terra de Promissio Vineyard Sonoma Coast
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Dijon clones are ill-suited to warmer pinot-growing regions such as most of the North Coast, says Hugh Chapelle. "The Dijon clones belong over there, where they came from. They desiccate quickly and you lose freshness, which is what makes pinot pinot." Chapelle was far from the only winemaker who appears to be rethinking whether Burgundian clones are appropriate in any but the coolest California spots. "They can be great but the vineyard has to be cool enough for the fruit not to go over the top." The 2006 season posed a series of potential problems, said Chapelle, "starting with the fact that it was very humid in the Russian River Valley, which meant mildew-and then the potential for botrytis at harvest time. Selection was extremely important."