2003 Rubesco Torgiano Rosso Riserva Vigna Monticchio

Back in the '70s, practically the only decent Umbrian wine came from Lungarotti. New and exciting wineries have surfaced in Umbria in recent years, but Lungarotti is still a recognized quality leader and one of Italy's most important estates. Led by two sisters-the more laid-back and soft-spoken Maria Teresa (the first woman from Umbria to graduate with an enology degree) and the high-energy Chiara-Lungarotti's future and past go hand in hand. Examples of their innovative mindset include a project with the University of Perugia aimed at developing thermal energy from vine cuttings in an effort to gain energy self-sufficiency for the estate, and the attention paid to old local grapes such as canaiolo nero, a variety that almost everyone else around them (and in Tuscany as well) is ripping up. Recently, Chiara told me that she felt canaiolo nero is a much better partner for sangiovese than merlot or cabernet, which tend to take over in a blend. Interestingly, the Lungarotti sisters and their top-rate winemaking team manage to wring out character and quality from other lesser grape varieties such as grechetto and trebbiano as well. Also recommended: 2005 Rubesco Torgiano Rosso (85). Other wines tasted: 2004 Sagrantino di Montefalco.

Lungarotti is one of Umbria's largest and most historic estates. The flagship wine is the Torgiano Rosso Riserva Vigna Monticchio, a blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo aged in cask and smaller French oak barrels for 12 months. Winemaking has moved towards a more modern style in recent years yet the wines could use a little more direction, clarity and focus.