2012 Pinot Noir Hirsch
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2015 - 2022
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Lioco stands out for wines that deliver pure pleasure. Every glass seems to call for another in these superb, impeccable whites and reds. Winemaker John Raytek makes the Lioco wines in a slightly riper style than he favors at Ceritas, which puts Lioco closer to the center. Best of all, pricing remains exceedingly fair for the quality that goes into the bottle.
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Since John Raytek took over the winemaking here the wines have taken on more depth, roundness and texture but they still retain the nervy, mineral-driven character that owners Matt Licklider and Kevin O'Connor prize. There's a little bit of oak involved in the chardonnay equation now (everything was done exclusively in stainless steel before Raytek) but it's all neutral. "So it's not like we went toasty vanilla or butterscotchy," said Licklider. With the exception of a few high-end bottlings from some fancy single vineyards these are aggressively priced wines "meant to sell and be drunk," according to Licklider. I've learned that they also age surprisingly well, based on some older chardonnays and pinots that I've enjoyed over the past year.
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