2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire
$65 (2010)
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
84% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah (2019 vintage)
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2003
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This is among the most reliable sources for classic Chateauneuf du Pape.Andre Brunel and with his ubiquitous enologist Philippe Cambie (whom I ran into in three different cellars in as many days) are producing wines that could hardly fail to please any enophile.Les Cailloux is especially impressive in the '03 and '04 vintages, but for balance and elegance rather than any excesses or drama.The 2004s, in particular, are suave, bright and unadorned.Oak here is treated as a vessel, not a flavoring.As Brunel described it:"We don't need the sweetness of oak on grenache; it's sweet enough on its own."To that end, the grenache here is raised solely in stainless steel, with only the mourvedre and syrah aged in barrique.(Notes on the Feraud-Brunel wines, a negociant venture between Brunel and Laurence Feraud of Domaine du Pegau, appear later in this issue.)(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2019
2026 - 2039
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2016
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2012
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2010
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2010
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2007
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2007
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2006
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One of the most dependable producers of elegant Chateauneuf du Pape showed me some of the most seductive wines of my November tour of the Rhone Valley. According to Andre Brunel, "one of the most interesting aspects of 2006 is that the full ripeness was not attained at the expense of freshness." Brunel recently purchased a 40-hectare vineyard in the top Cotes du Rhone village of Travaillon, dramatically increasing his overall holdings and affording him a greater supply of estate grapes for his entry-level wines. I had the opportunity to retaste the 2000, 1999 and 1998 bottlings of Brunel's Chateauneuf classique and was especially impressed by the complexity of the 1999, which offered an array of smoky red fruits, truffle and herbs. The 2000 is still primary, with juicy raspberry and anise flavors, while the 1998 appears to be approaching peak drinkability, offering spicy depth and supple texture. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2005
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One of the most dependable producers of elegant Chateauneuf du Pape showed me some of the most seductive wines of my November tour of the Rhone Valley. According to Andre Brunel, "one of the most interesting aspects of 2006 is that the full ripeness was not attained at the expense of freshness." Brunel recently purchased a 40-hectare vineyard in the top Cotes du Rhone village of Travaillon, dramatically increasing his overall holdings and affording him a greater supply of estate grapes for his entry-level wines. I had the opportunity to retaste the 2000, 1999 and 1998 bottlings of Brunel's Chateauneuf classique and was especially impressed by the complexity of the 1999, which offered an array of smoky red fruits, truffle and herbs. The 2000 is still primary, with juicy raspberry and anise flavors, while the 1998 appears to be approaching peak drinkability, offering spicy depth and supple texture. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2005
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Andre Brunel emphasized, again, that he is seeking to produce wines of balance and finesse, and he believes that both of the current vintages afforded Chateauneuf a golden opportunity to make some of the most precise wines in years. The 2005 Cuvee Centenaire, he believes, is the greatest example of that bottling ever, and he is especially enthralled by "the fantastic glyceral texture achieved in 2005. "Brunel chose not to make a Cuvee Centenaire in 2004, by the way, "because it's an elegant vintage and those aren't the vintages when I like to make that cuvee. "(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )
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2001
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2001
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The last winery visit of my tour of the Rhone Valleyx000D featured some of the finest wines of my trip. Andre Brunel has crafted 2000s and 2001s that offer marvelous richnessx000D of fruit as well as uncanny finesse for Chateauneuf. The crop was smaller in 2001 than in the previous year, Brunelx000D told me (about 33 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 38), and he carried outx000D a longer cuvaison, with more pigeage and delestage, to take maximum advantagex000D of the vintage's strong raw materials. Brunel describes the 2001s as unusually fine for Chateauneuf du Pape,x000D while the 2000s are in a distinctly opulent style. Brunel's Cuvee Centenaire is always worth a special search of thex000D marketplace. While this blend includedx000D some mourvedre in both 2000 and 1998, in 2001 it's all grenache and syrah. (Brunel also has a negociant operation withx000D Laurence Feraud of Domaine du Pegau; see my notes under Feraud-Brunel.) (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2000
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The last winery visit of my tour of the Rhone Valleyx000D featured some of the finest wines of my trip. Andre Brunel has crafted 2000s and 2001s that offer marvelous richnessx000D of fruit as well as uncanny finesse for Chateauneuf. The crop was smaller in 2001 than in the previous year, Brunelx000D told me (about 33 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 38), and he carried outx000D a longer cuvaison, with more pigeage and delestage, to take maximum advantagex000D of the vintage's strong raw materials. Brunel describes the 2001s as unusually fine for Chateauneuf du Pape,x000D while the 2000s are in a distinctly opulent style. Brunel's Cuvee Centenaire is always worth a special search of thex000D marketplace. While this blend includedx000D some mourvedre in both 2000 and 1998, in 2001 it's all grenache and syrah. (Brunel also has a negociant operation withx000D Laurence Feraud of Domaine du Pegau; see my notes under Feraud-Brunel.) (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2000
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1998
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