2017 Léoville Poyferré
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
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2026 - 2050
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2025 - 2047
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2021 - 2040
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This year I started the tour of Saint-Julien at Léoville Poyferré since Didier Cuvelier announced that he would be retiring this coming summer, handing over running to his cousin Sara Cuvelier. Didier will be missed. He took this property from an also-ran Second Growth long overdue investment to one of the top estates, not just in Saint-Julien but on the entire Left Bank. This was my first encounter with Sara Cuvelier who seems friendly and knowledgeable and no doubt will keep Didier close-at-hand for any advice. “It was not difficult,” Didier tells me in the tasting room, still covered in wine writer graffiti (I cannot believe it is 11 years since I did one of the first scrawls on virgin wall.) “The fermentation was very rapid and the malolactic finished early. There were three parcels of Merlot that were extraordinary. It was the first time that we have used organic viticulture on six hectares of the vineyard and in 2018 it will be expanded to 15 hectares. I find the 2017 has the charm of 2012, the power of 2014 and the elegance of 2015.” It is interesting to see Didier praising the Merlot when some château further north asserted that the early September rain weakened the Merlot and consequently it was relegated out of the Grand Vin. Maybe having the “Merlot Master”, Michel Rolland as consultant helped?
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