2003 Léoville Poyferré
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2021 - 2032
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The 2005 has a very high indice de polyphenols totaux, said director Didier Cuvelier, but the concentration of polyphenols comes from nature, not from extraction techniques in the winery. The harvest here took place on the late side, beginning on September 26. The petit verdot, which this estate has been including in its blend since 2001, was especially high in tannins, noted Cuvelier, who compared the young 2005 to the estate's 1945. He noted that the early sample included 5% press wine but told me he might add up to another 10%.
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The rain during the harvest swelled the merlot grapes more than the cabernet sauvignon here, with the result that both osmose inverse and saignee were used to concentrate the must. The wine I tasted is still a good 13% alcohol.
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This chateau is frequently overshadowed by the other Leovilles: Las Cases due to its sheer concentration and brilliance and Barton due to its early sex appeal and the fluent English of its proprietor. But Leoville-Poyferre has been producing consistently excellent wines in recent years, under the directorship of Didier Cuvelier and with the advice of superconsultant Michel Rolland. Like Anthony Barton, Cuvelier considers 2003 to be a less roasted wine than either 1990 or 1989, more evidence that in the northern portion of the Medoc in 2003, aromas and flavors are often purer and more vibrant that one would believe possible from a summer of extreme heat. Poyferre produced only 31 hectoliters per hectare, with the merlot yield especially low due to a bad flowering and particularly small grapes. "Only in the best terroirs does merlot have energy in 2003," noted Cuvelier. "The rest of the merlot tends to be flat." Cuvelier noted that his very strong 2002 fruit came in with virtually the same levels of sugar and polyphenols as the 2003. Neither year needed help from any techniques to concentrate the must. Barton, incidentally, began using reverse osmosis (a technique he described as "a technological saignee in the 1987 vintage. "There have been only 5 vintages out of my 25 where we didn't need to do anything to concentrate the musts," he told me: "1982, 1989, 1990, 2002 and 2003."