2000 Léoville Poyferré
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2022 - 2042
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This was not the only Medoc chateau where I preferred both the 2002 and 2001 vintages to the 2000. Didier Cuvelier reported that the steady northeast wind of September reduced the volume of the grapes, further dropping yields following the loss of half of the merlot due to coulure The result was potential alcohol of 13.15%, very high for this estate and in the same neighborhood as the '82, '89 and '90. "Like a powerful version of the '96 or '86," is how Cuvelier described his young 2002. "The wine has much riper cabernet tannins than the 2000," he added, making it clear that the 2000 is not really his favorite style. "The 2001 is less massive and more elegant than the 2002."
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Virtually before pouring the samples, maitre de chai Francis Dourthe compared the chateau's '01 and '00 to the '83 and '82; as a long-time fan of the '83 I could sense what was coming. The new vintage, according to Dourthe, has slightly higher acidity than 2000. But analytically, it also has more stuffing, more glycerol, more tannins. And the grapes, despite being harvested very late and almost surmuri, were very clean, he added. This was indeed one of a few Northern Medoc addresses where the 2001 appeared to be superior to the millennial vintage.
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Maitre de chai M. Dourthe was high on this chateau 2000, which featured very ripe, aromatic cabernet sauvignon. Polyphenol levels were higher than those of '96 but the fruit also came in with more sugar. The wine shows terrific gras and nearly exotic ripeness, said Dourthe, but acid levels are sound. "Still, 2000 is not in the same class as '89 or '90," he told me. "We only get vintages with that kind of power once every 25 years." The estate shortened the cuvaison a bit (from 26 days in 1999 to 19 in 2000) to preserve fruit.
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