1999 Léoville Poyferré
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2019 - 2032
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Virtually before pouring the samples, maitre de chai Francis Dourthe compared the chateau's '01 and '00 to the '83 and '82; as a long-time fan of the '83 I could sense what was coming. The new vintage, according to Dourthe, has slightly higher acidity than 2000. But analytically, it also has more stuffing, more glycerol, more tannins. And the grapes, despite being harvested very late and almost surmuri, were very clean, he added. This was indeed one of a few Northern Medoc addresses where the 2001 appeared to be superior to the millennial vintage.
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Maitre de chai M. Dourthe was high on this chateau 2000, which featured very ripe, aromatic cabernet sauvignon. Polyphenol levels were higher than those of '96 but the fruit also came in with more sugar. The wine shows terrific gras and nearly exotic ripeness, said Dourthe, but acid levels are sound. "Still, 2000 is not in the same class as '89 or '90," he told me. "We only get vintages with that kind of power once every 25 years." The estate shortened the cuvaison a bit (from 26 days in 1999 to 19 in 2000) to preserve fruit.
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Didier Cuvelier describes the '99 cabernet as riper than the '98. No chaptalization was done, as the alcohol level was raised from 11.5% to 12.2% via saignee and reverse osmosis. Cuvelier characterizes the wine as "like a blend of '89 and '96." Part of the malolactic fermentation has been done in barrels here in recent years, and maitre de chai Francis Dourthe told me that the estate may do some lees-stirring beginning with the 2000 vintage.
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