1997 Léoville Poyferré
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Didier Cuvelier describes the '99 cabernet as riper than the '98. No chaptalization was done, as the alcohol level was raised from 11.5% to 12.2% via saignee and reverse osmosis. Cuvelier characterizes the wine as "like a blend of '89 and '96." Part of the malolactic fermentation has been done in barrels here in recent years, and maitre de chai Francis Dourthe told me that the estate may do some lees-stirring beginning with the 2000 vintage.
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Didier Cuvelier did a long cold maceration prior to the beginning of the fermentation in '98 and once again has made one of the darker wines of the Medoc. But I continue to find this wine hard to read in the early going, as its cold maceration aromas are more pronounced than any impression of terroir.
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Didier Cuvelier describes 1997 as a year that favors precocious right-bank merlot and late-picked Medoc cabernet. The merlot in St. Julien, he said, suffered from particularly uneven ripening. With the continued consulting advice of globetrotting enologist Michel Rolland, he has made a distinctly fruity style of Leoville-Poyferre, one that does not appear to possess the gamey depths of the '96 or '95 but which should offer early drinkability. No more than 40% of the crop will go into the grand vin, which will consist of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot and 15% petit verdot. Cuvelier describes 1996 as a classic vintage, while '95 is a bit pute
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