2006 Léoville Barton
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2006
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2024
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Lilian and Damien Barton-Sartorius, plus their dogs, greeted me at Léoville Barton. “I think at Mauvesin-Barton (the family estate in Moulis-en-Médoc) the Cabernet shines in 2024 because it is located on well-drained soil. We were happy with the maturity of the skins, which is why the blend contains more Cabernet. The yields are around 30 hl/ha, not because of mildew but because of cold, wet weather during flowering. The bunches were loose, but I didn’t see so much coulure.”
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2024
2034 - 2049
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2023
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2022
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2022
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2021
2028 - 2051
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2021
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2021
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“It was not a good vintage for tourists, but it was enough to ripen the grapes,” Lilian Barton-Sartorius told me when I called in at Mauvesin-Baron, out in Moulis-en-Médoc. “I think it is a vintage where buyers should shop carefully. Gelée blanche is when there is no wind, and the cold air sits at the bottom and gelée noir is when there are cold winds, and you bring even more cold air to the vineyards. The first night was gélee noir and hit the top of the hills and the second night gelée blanche. We have candles here which is fine when temperatures are -2°C but not efficient if it is -5°C. We had no frost in Saint-Julien, and the wines exhibited high acidity levels, mostly malic so the total acidity decreased to a fairly normal number. Our challenge was that the Merlot could be diluted because of the showers, but the grape size was not too large. and their skin maturity was fine. The 20mm of rain forecast just before harvest never materialised, though we took the decision to pick before as we did not feel it would disadvantage us much as it takes three days for any water to be sucked up by the vines. The 2021s are the first vintages made in the new winery equipped with smaller vats (80-200hL whereas they were uniformly 200hL) and in small batches using our three, 5-hectoliter vertical presses that allow us to separate the skins and press the heart of the batch and gain precision. There is around 12.5% vin de presse in the final blend.”
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2020
2027 - 2060
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2019
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2017
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I was unprepared for an impressive showing by Léoville Barton. Tasting it side-by-side against a barrel sample of 2016, to be honest, this was a rare occasion when there is not an enormous gap between the two. It is the complexity on the nose, the vivacity and fineness of the tannin, the pitch-perfect acidity and persistency that just elevates this Saint-Julien above many of its Second Growth peers. Given its loyal following I suspect that this could be one of the commercial “hits” of the primeur campaign.
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2017
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2016
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2016
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2016
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2015
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2015
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2015
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2014
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2014
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2014
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2014
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According to Lilian Barton-Sartorius yields were down considerably in 2014, largely the result of the hot Indian summer that followed a very cool August. As for the wines, well, the 2014s showed beautifully both times I tasted them.
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2013
2023 - 2032
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2013
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2012
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2012
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2012
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2011
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2011
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2010
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2009
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2009
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2009
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2008
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There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way on my first day. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
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2008
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2008
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2007
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2007
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The always-candid Anthony Barton calls 2007 the miracle vintage, as it was saved at the end by excellent September weather. He compared it to past vintages like 1997 and 1987 and noted that "it would be nice to offer the 2007s at sensible prices." Barton described the outbreak of mildew in 2007 as the worst since '68, '65 and '63, but emphasized that vineyard owners today are far better equipped to take the necessary defensive steps-and of course to eliminate affected fruit. His description of 1968 was particularly grim. "I remember that the fruit went into the vat in a cloud of dust," he told me. "The grape clusters looked like dead rats." An appetizing image. By the way, Barton told me that although he had always preferred the 1990 Leoville-Barton to the 1989, in the past year he feels the 1990 has reached its peak and that the 1989 is now surpassing it.
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2006
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The always-candid Anthony Barton calls 2007 the miracle vintage, as it was saved at the end by excellent September weather. He compared it to past vintages like 1997 and 1987 and noted that "it would be nice to offer the 2007s at sensible prices." Barton described the outbreak of mildew in 2007 as the worst since '68, '65 and '63, but emphasized that vineyard owners today are far better equipped to take the necessary defensive steps-and of course to eliminate affected fruit. His description of 1968 was particularly grim. "I remember that the fruit went into the vat in a cloud of dust," he told me. "The grape clusters looked like dead rats." An appetizing image. By the way, Barton told me that although he had always preferred the 1990 Leoville-Barton to the 1989, in the past year he feels the 1990 has reached its peak and that the 1989 is now surpassing it.
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2006
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Anthony Barton's take on the new vintage is always a breath of fresh air, as he seems totally unconcerned with spin. "The cabernet sauvignon was fine, but we had some rot in the merlot and they're a bit dull," he told me. "The cabernet is more pleasing; more vivacious. But we didn't notice too much of a difference in maturity between the first-picked cabernet sauvignon and the last." Barton told me that he eliminated about 25% of the fruit at both Leoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton, and that the wines would age on their tannins. When I asked him to rank the Leoville-Barton vintages of recent years, he said "2003 is best, with 2005 next."
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2005
2023 - 2045
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2005
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The always-candid Anthony Barton calls 2007 the miracle vintage, as it was saved at the end by excellent September weather. He compared it to past vintages like 1997 and 1987 and noted that "it would be nice to offer the 2007s at sensible prices." Barton described the outbreak of mildew in 2007 as the worst since '68, '65 and '63, but emphasized that vineyard owners today are far better equipped to take the necessary defensive steps-and of course to eliminate affected fruit. His description of 1968 was particularly grim. "I remember that the fruit went into the vat in a cloud of dust," he told me. "The grape clusters looked like dead rats." An appetizing image. By the way, Barton told me that although he had always preferred the 1990 Leoville-Barton to the 1989, in the past year he feels the 1990 has reached its peak and that the 1989 is now surpassing it.
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2005
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Anthony Barton's take on the new vintage is always a breath of fresh air, as he seems totally unconcerned with spin. "The cabernet sauvignon was fine, but we had some rot in the merlot and they're a bit dull," he told me. "The cabernet is more pleasing; more vivacious. But we didn't notice too much of a difference in maturity between the first-picked cabernet sauvignon and the last." Barton told me that he eliminated about 25% of the fruit at both Leoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton, and that the wines would age on their tannins. When I asked him to rank the Leoville-Barton vintages of recent years, he said "2003 is best, with 2005 next."
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2005
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Anthony Barton told me that because some of his neighbors do not want to risk losing their pickers by waiting a few days between their merlot and cabernet harvests, they have a tendency to wait too long before starting with the merlot. And those who picked late in 2005, he went on, "made wines that lack life and vivacity." Barton harvested during the last third of September, which he described as "not late at all," and believes that he brought in fruit with "no noticeable overmaturity of either merlot or cabernet." He was one of several chateau proprietors who noted that the 2005s were untastable and often brutally tannic "old-style" wines until mid-March, and that it was far too soon for visitors to be making judgments on the wines. Even during the Union des Grands Crus tastings (week of April 3), he said, it was too early. "The reputation of the wines is being made this week," he explained. "This week the notes get into the computers, and they're there forever, even if the writers change their scores three years from now."
00
2004
2024 - 2038
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2004
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Anthony Barton's take on the new vintage is always a breath of fresh air, as he seems totally unconcerned with spin. "The cabernet sauvignon was fine, but we had some rot in the merlot and they're a bit dull," he told me. "The cabernet is more pleasing; more vivacious. But we didn't notice too much of a difference in maturity between the first-picked cabernet sauvignon and the last." Barton told me that he eliminated about 25% of the fruit at both Leoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton, and that the wines would age on their tannins. When I asked him to rank the Leoville-Barton vintages of recent years, he said "2003 is best, with 2005 next."
00
2004
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Anthony Barton told me that because some of his neighbors do not want to risk losing their pickers by waiting a few days between their merlot and cabernet harvests, they have a tendency to wait too long before starting with the merlot. And those who picked late in 2005, he went on, "made wines that lack life and vivacity." Barton harvested during the last third of September, which he described as "not late at all," and believes that he brought in fruit with "no noticeable overmaturity of either merlot or cabernet." He was one of several chateau proprietors who noted that the 2005s were untastable and often brutally tannic "old-style" wines until mid-March, and that it was far too soon for visitors to be making judgments on the wines. Even during the Union des Grands Crus tastings (week of April 3), he said, it was too early. "The reputation of the wines is being made this week," he explained. "This week the notes get into the computers, and they're there forever, even if the writers change their scores three years from now."
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2004
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According to Anthony Barton, the 2004 has a bigger structure than the 2002 ("more fruit and muscle"), but there are a lot of similarities between the two years. Grape sugars were sound in 2004: 12% to 12.5% for the merlot at the time of the harvest and about 11.5% for the cabernet sauvignon. Barton is not a proponent of picking overripe fruit. "People's notions of ripe fruit vary," was his diplomatic way of saying that he was a traditionalist, and that Bordeaux should not be trying to compete with Napa Valley by harvesting fruit beyond the point of ideal ripeness.
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2003
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Anthony Barton told me that because some of his neighbors do not want to risk losing their pickers by waiting a few days between their merlot and cabernet harvests, they have a tendency to wait too long before starting with the merlot. And those who picked late in 2005, he went on, "made wines that lack life and vivacity." Barton harvested during the last third of September, which he described as "not late at all," and believes that he brought in fruit with "no noticeable overmaturity of either merlot or cabernet." He was one of several chateau proprietors who noted that the 2005s were untastable and often brutally tannic "old-style" wines until mid-March, and that it was far too soon for visitors to be making judgments on the wines. Even during the Union des Grands Crus tastings (week of April 3), he said, it was too early. "The reputation of the wines is being made this week," he explained. "This week the notes get into the computers, and they're there forever, even if the writers change their scores three years from now."
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2003
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According to Anthony Barton, the 2004 has a bigger structure than the 2002 ("more fruit and muscle"), but there are a lot of similarities between the two years. Grape sugars were sound in 2004: 12% to 12.5% for the merlot at the time of the harvest and about 11.5% for the cabernet sauvignon. Barton is not a proponent of picking overripe fruit. "People's notions of ripe fruit vary," was his diplomatic way of saying that he was a traditionalist, and that Bordeaux should not be trying to compete with Napa Valley by harvesting fruit beyond the point of ideal ripeness.
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2003
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Anthony Barton, who can normally be relied on for a candid assessment of his own wines, rates 2003 ahead of 2000. He compares the early vintage, incidentally, to his '89 and '90 bottlings in style. And he told me that he considers the 2002 "much more wine" than the 2001. The 2003 was indeed something of a miracle, he said. "The early prelevement suggested that the fruit had low polyphenol levels and that we'd have difficulty extracting much color," he explained. "Something obviously happened in the two or three weeks prior to the harvest." Ultimately, Barton made a deeply colored wine with 13% alcohol, a sound pH (3.66), and acidity (3.31 grams) he described as "not particularly low."
00
2002
2020 - 2040
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2002
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According to Anthony Barton, the 2004 has a bigger structure than the 2002 ("more fruit and muscle"), but there are a lot of similarities between the two years. Grape sugars were sound in 2004: 12% to 12.5% for the merlot at the time of the harvest and about 11.5% for the cabernet sauvignon. Barton is not a proponent of picking overripe fruit. "People's notions of ripe fruit vary," was his diplomatic way of saying that he was a traditionalist, and that Bordeaux should not be trying to compete with Napa Valley by harvesting fruit beyond the point of ideal ripeness.
00
2002
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Anthony Barton, who can normally be relied on for a candid assessment of his own wines, rates 2003 ahead of 2000. He compares the early vintage, incidentally, to his '89 and '90 bottlings in style. And he told me that he considers the 2002 "much more wine" than the 2001. The 2003 was indeed something of a miracle, he said. "The early prelevement suggested that the fruit had low polyphenol levels and that we'd have difficulty extracting much color," he explained. "Something obviously happened in the two or three weeks prior to the harvest." Ultimately, Barton made a deeply colored wine with 13% alcohol, a sound pH (3.66), and acidity (3.31 grams) he described as "not particularly low."
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2002
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Anthony Barton described the 2002 vintage as a surprise. The wind from the northeast blew for the month leading up to the cabernet harvest, drying and concentrating the grapes. "We can compare 2002 to 1978," he told me, "but in 1978 the grapes weren't completely ripe."
00
2001
2021 - 2036
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2001
2018 - 2030
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La Trompette, established 2001, used to be a good local restaurant but lagged behind others owned by Nigel Platts-Martin, such as Chez Bruce, The Ledbury, The Glasshouse and The Square (the latter since sold and frankly a pale imitation of what used to be one of the capitals finest restaurants.) Located in Chiswick in West London, it literally lies round the corner from Hedone that Antonio recently reviewed. Refurbishment in 2013 saw La Trompette shut its doors and reopen with more ambition. Rob Weston, who had worked at La Gavroche and subsequently as Phil Howard’s right hand man at The Square for 15-years, took the menu to a completely different level. I am probably not the only person opining that La Trompette is the most consistent, well-priced, Michelin-starred restaurant in London and I say that as someone who has eaten there 30 or 40 times.
00
2001
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Anthony Barton, who can normally be relied on for a candid assessment of his own wines, rates 2003 ahead of 2000. He compares the early vintage, incidentally, to his '89 and '90 bottlings in style. And he told me that he considers the 2002 "much more wine" than the 2001. The 2003 was indeed something of a miracle, he said. "The early prelevement suggested that the fruit had low polyphenol levels and that we'd have difficulty extracting much color," he explained. "Something obviously happened in the two or three weeks prior to the harvest." Ultimately, Barton made a deeply colored wine with 13% alcohol, a sound pH (3.66), and acidity (3.31 grams) he described as "not particularly low."
00
2001
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Anthony Barton described the 2002 vintage as a surprise. The wind from the northeast blew for the month leading up to the cabernet harvest, drying and concentrating the grapes. "We can compare 2002 to 1978," he told me, "but in 1978 the grapes weren't completely ripe."
00
2001
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The 2001 vintage brought the highest tannin index ever recorded at Leoville-Barton, said Anthony Barton, "and yet the wine does not have the same structure as the 2000 even if the two wines are analytically similar." Barton does not believe in green-harvesting, as he is convinced that Nature simply compensates for this step by inflating the size of the grapes that remain.
00
2000
2021 - 2032
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2000
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Anthony Barton described the 2002 vintage as a surprise. The wind from the northeast blew for the month leading up to the cabernet harvest, drying and concentrating the grapes. "We can compare 2002 to 1978," he told me, "but in 1978 the grapes weren't completely ripe."
00
2000
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The 2001 vintage brought the highest tannin index ever recorded at Leoville-Barton, said Anthony Barton, "and yet the wine does not have the same structure as the 2000 even if the two wines are analytically similar." Barton does not believe in green-harvesting, as he is convinced that Nature simply compensates for this step by inflating the size of the grapes that remain.
00
2000
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This estate grand vin always attracts the enthusiasm of early tasters, for two reasons: the wine has been consistently excellent in recent years, and Anthony Barton has a far more reasonable attitude toward pricing than many of his neighbors in the Medoc. This is still a traditionally made wine: the estate does not own a concentrator, does not do the malolactic fermentation in barrel, and eschews lees stirring. The 2000 is an unusually large-scaled and rich Leoville-Barton, with considerable power and rather low acidity.
00
2000
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This estate grand vin always attracts the enthusiasm of early tasters, for two reasons: the wine has been consistently excellent in recent years, and Anthony Barton has a far more reasonable attitude toward pricing than many of his neighbors in the Medoc. This is still a traditionally made wine: the estate does not own a concentrator, does not do the malolactic fermentation in barrel, and eschews lees stirring. The 2000 is an unusually large-scaled and rich Leoville-Barton, with considerable power and rather low acidity.
00
1999
2019 - 2033
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00
1999
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The 2001 vintage brought the highest tannin index ever recorded at Leoville-Barton, said Anthony Barton, "and yet the wine does not have the same structure as the 2000 even if the two wines are analytically similar." Barton does not believe in green-harvesting, as he is convinced that Nature simply compensates for this step by inflating the size of the grapes that remain.
00
1999
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This estate grand vin always attracts the enthusiasm of early tasters, for two reasons: the wine has been consistently excellent in recent years, and Anthony Barton has a far more reasonable attitude toward pricing than many of his neighbors in the Medoc. This is still a traditionally made wine: the estate does not own a concentrator, does not do the malolactic fermentation in barrel, and eschews lees stirring. The 2000 is an unusually large-scaled and rich Leoville-Barton, with considerable power and rather low acidity.
00
1999
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This estate grand vin always attracts the enthusiasm of early tasters, for two reasons: the wine has been consistently excellent in recent years, and Anthony Barton has a far more reasonable attitude toward pricing than many of his neighbors in the Medoc. This is still a traditionally made wine: the estate does not own a concentrator, does not do the malolactic fermentation in barrel, and eschews lees stirring. The 2000 is an unusually large-scaled and rich Leoville-Barton, with considerable power and rather low acidity.
00
1999
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"With the ripeness we had by early September, we were expecting another 1945," Anthony Barton told me at the end of March. But it wasn't to be. The grapes ultimately had the highest tannin index to date at this estate, as well as low acidity. Still, notes Barton, "we resisted the temptation to do a longer cuvaison." This traditional estate does not do malolactic fermentation in new barrels and uses only saignee to bleed off excess water in the grapes.
00
1998
2022 - 2040
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00
1998
2018 - 2028
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00
1998
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This estate grand vin always attracts the enthusiasm of early tasters, for two reasons: the wine has been consistently excellent in recent years, and Anthony Barton has a far more reasonable attitude toward pricing than many of his neighbors in the Medoc. This is still a traditionally made wine: the estate does not own a concentrator, does not do the malolactic fermentation in barrel, and eschews lees stirring. The 2000 is an unusually large-scaled and rich Leoville-Barton, with considerable power and rather low acidity.
00
1998
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This estate grand vin always attracts the enthusiasm of early tasters, for two reasons: the wine has been consistently excellent in recent years, and Anthony Barton has a far more reasonable attitude toward pricing than many of his neighbors in the Medoc. This is still a traditionally made wine: the estate does not own a concentrator, does not do the malolactic fermentation in barrel, and eschews lees stirring. The 2000 is an unusually large-scaled and rich Leoville-Barton, with considerable power and rather low acidity.
00
1998
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"With the ripeness we had by early September, we were expecting another 1945," Anthony Barton told me at the end of March. But it wasn't to be. The grapes ultimately had the highest tannin index to date at this estate, as well as low acidity. Still, notes Barton, "we resisted the temptation to do a longer cuvaison." This traditional estate does not do malolactic fermentation in new barrels and uses only saignee to bleed off excess water in the grapes.
00
1998
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The '98 Leoville-Barton garnered consistently favorable response at the Union des Grands Crus events at the end of March, with many tasters shocked that a wine not concentrated via high-tech methods could be so successful in this rain-soaked harvest. For his own part, Anthony Barton prefers doing a saignee and chaptalizing to using newfangled devices. "These traditional approaches have a longer history of working," he points out. The tannin index was very high in '98--in fact higher than in '96, said Barton, but the tannins are soft. Barton is one chateau owner who has kept price hikes modest in the last few vintages, and in recent years he has been consistently critical of gougers. "Many proprietors knowingly made mistakes with their '97 pricing," he pointed out. "In many cases they simply followed their neighbors, even though they knew better, which only compounded the error."
00
1998
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The '98 Leoville-Barton garnered consistently favorable response at the Union des Grands Crus events at the end of March, with many tasters shocked that a wine not concentrated via high-tech methods could be so successful in this rain-soaked harvest. For his own part, Anthony Barton prefers doing a saignee and chaptalizing to using newfangled devices. "These traditional approaches have a longer history of working," he points out. The tannin index was very high in '98--in fact higher than in '96, said Barton, but the tannins are soft. Barton is one chateau owner who has kept price hikes modest in the last few vintages, and in recent years he has been consistently critical of gougers. "Many proprietors knowingly made mistakes with their '97 pricing," he pointed out. "In many cases they simply followed their neighbors, even though they knew better, which only compounded the error."
00
1997
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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"With the ripeness we had by early September, we were expecting another 1945," Anthony Barton told me at the end of March. But it wasn't to be. The grapes ultimately had the highest tannin index to date at this estate, as well as low acidity. Still, notes Barton, "we resisted the temptation to do a longer cuvaison." This traditional estate does not do malolactic fermentation in new barrels and uses only saignee to bleed off excess water in the grapes.
00
1997
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
The '98 Leoville-Barton garnered consistently favorable response at the Union des Grands Crus events at the end of March, with many tasters shocked that a wine not concentrated via high-tech methods could be so successful in this rain-soaked harvest. For his own part, Anthony Barton prefers doing a saignee and chaptalizing to using newfangled devices. "These traditional approaches have a longer history of working," he points out. The tannin index was very high in '98--in fact higher than in '96, said Barton, but the tannins are soft. Barton is one chateau owner who has kept price hikes modest in the last few vintages, and in recent years he has been consistently critical of gougers. "Many proprietors knowingly made mistakes with their '97 pricing," he pointed out. "In many cases they simply followed their neighbors, even though they knew better, which only compounded the error."
00
1997
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The '98 Leoville-Barton garnered consistently favorable response at the Union des Grands Crus events at the end of March, with many tasters shocked that a wine not concentrated via high-tech methods could be so successful in this rain-soaked harvest. For his own part, Anthony Barton prefers doing a saignee and chaptalizing to using newfangled devices. "These traditional approaches have a longer history of working," he points out. The tannin index was very high in '98--in fact higher than in '96, said Barton, but the tannins are soft. Barton is one chateau owner who has kept price hikes modest in the last few vintages, and in recent years he has been consistently critical of gougers. "Many proprietors knowingly made mistakes with their '97 pricing," he pointed out. "In many cases they simply followed their neighbors, even though they knew better, which only compounded the error."
00
1996
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The '98 Leoville-Barton garnered consistently favorable response at the Union des Grands Crus events at the end of March, with many tasters shocked that a wine not concentrated via high-tech methods could be so successful in this rain-soaked harvest. For his own part, Anthony Barton prefers doing a saignee and chaptalizing to using newfangled devices. "These traditional approaches have a longer history of working," he points out. The tannin index was very high in '98--in fact higher than in '96, said Barton, but the tannins are soft. Barton is one chateau owner who has kept price hikes modest in the last few vintages, and in recent years he has been consistently critical of gougers. "Many proprietors knowingly made mistakes with their '97 pricing," he pointed out. "In many cases they simply followed their neighbors, even though they knew better, which only compounded the error."
00
1996
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The '98 Leoville-Barton garnered consistently favorable response at the Union des Grands Crus events at the end of March, with many tasters shocked that a wine not concentrated via high-tech methods could be so successful in this rain-soaked harvest. For his own part, Anthony Barton prefers doing a saignee and chaptalizing to using newfangled devices. "These traditional approaches have a longer history of working," he points out. The tannin index was very high in '98--in fact higher than in '96, said Barton, but the tannins are soft. Barton is one chateau owner who has kept price hikes modest in the last few vintages, and in recent years he has been consistently critical of gougers. "Many proprietors knowingly made mistakes with their '97 pricing," he pointed out. "In many cases they simply followed their neighbors, even though they knew better, which only compounded the error."
00
1996
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Anthony Barton, who was back in form following heart bypass surgery last spring, relies on strict pruning during the winter to keep crop levels reasonable, and does not believe in vendange vert or other later crop-thinning measures. He concentrated his musts by carrying out a saignee, then made the selection of the best materials for his grand vin before each lot went into the crusher. "Yes, the flowering was protracted in '97," says Barton, "but even the pink grapes weren't real acidic. We can't pick within bunches, so we didn't wait longer to harvest. And I believe that it would not have been beneficial to wait because we would have lost flavor in the grapes." Barton noted that he prefers the balance of the '95 to the '96. "Too many tasters believe that the darker and bigger the wine is, the better it is," he said. "But there always the risk that a vintage that takes many years to lose its tannins may also lose its fruit." He cited the '53 and '52 vintages an an example: the '53 was always delicious to drink, Barton pointed out, but the '52 never quite lost its tannic bite. Will the same thing happen with '85 and '86, he wonders.
00
1995
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Anthony Barton, who was back in form following heart bypass surgery last spring, relies on strict pruning during the winter to keep crop levels reasonable, and does not believe in vendange vert or other later crop-thinning measures. He concentrated his musts by carrying out a saignee, then made the selection of the best materials for his grand vin before each lot went into the crusher. "Yes, the flowering was protracted in '97," says Barton, "but even the pink grapes weren't real acidic. We can't pick within bunches, so we didn't wait longer to harvest. And I believe that it would not have been beneficial to wait because we would have lost flavor in the grapes." Barton noted that he prefers the balance of the '95 to the '96. "Too many tasters believe that the darker and bigger the wine is, the better it is," he said. "But there always the risk that a vintage that takes many years to lose its tannins may also lose its fruit." He cited the '53 and '52 vintages an an example: the '53 was always delicious to drink, Barton pointed out, but the '52 never quite lost its tannic bite. Will the same thing happen with '85 and '86, he wonders.
00
1994
2024 - 2038
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00
1990
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1989
2019 - 2032
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1988
2024 - 2036
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00
1988
2018 - 2030
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1985
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1982
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1972
2022 - 2029
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1970
2022 - 2027
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I first heard about The Sportsman not long after it opened from a local friend, and it had only taken a couple of decades to visit. Thankfully, it did not disappoint. This is cooking where the chef wisely takes a back seat and allows the ingredients do all the talking.
00
1961
2019 - 2032
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00
1961
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1959
2019 - 2030
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1956
2018 - 2018
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I have a soft spot for off-vintage Claret – the more “off,” the better. There must be a masochistic side to my personality that draws me inexorably toward vintages that should come with a government health warning. They don’t come riskier than the annus horribilis 1956, when Bordeaux infamously turned into the Arctic for a prolonged spell in February and vast swaths of vines perished in a mass execution by frost. Many châteaux could not produce a single bottle of 1956, though a few did eke out a tiny production. Nowadays, it is a vintage hardly ever seen. It took 20 years for me to stumble upon it, courtesy of a 1956 Léoville Barton served by co-proprietor Lilian Barton-Sartorius to celebrate 190 years of her family’s ownership, as a last-minute substitute for the 1966 that she intended to serve but could not locate. She offered a memorable anecdote about how then-proprietor Ronald Barton complained about hunters shooting their guns early in the morning during that deep freeze. But they were not guns; Barton was awoken by the sound of vines literally exploding as their sap froze and capillaries burst in their trunks. So this Cellar Favorite is a reminder that while some bottles might not offer sensory satisfaction, occasionally their historical significance gives an alternative kind of pleasure.
00
1953
2018 - 2025
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