2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
$75 (2022)
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsault (2023 vintage)
00
2010
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"A vintage to drink now and over the next few years" is how Claire Michel described 2011."There's good depth because there was a lot of selection but there isn't really the structure that you need to cellar them," she added.The 2010, which is based on 75% grenache and made from a yield of only 22 hl/ha, "is a completely different story" she said.It deserves up to a full decade more age to be showing its best, she thinks, "and after that it will keep going for a really long time, probably like the 1978."The 1999 Vieux Donjon, which I was able to taste at the end of my visit here, is showing bright red fruit and an intense garrigue character, with fully resolved tannins and a long, spicy finish.I doubt that it will be heading over the cliff any time soon but I don't see a lot more upside, either.
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2023
2027 - 2041
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2022
2027 - 2042
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During my visit with Claire Michel, who co-owns and operates Vieux Donjon with her brother Francois, we focused on winemaking. The process for the reds usually involves a proportion of whole clusters for Grenache, depending on the vintage. In 2021, the siblings destemmed 90% of Grenache, whereas in 2020 and 2022, they incorporated about 50% whole clusters. In contrast, Syrah and Mourvèdre are typically fully destemmed. One interesting aspect of the winemaking practice here is the co-fermentation of all the different grape varieties, rather than vinifying them separately and blending later. In 2023, the estate even added a small amount of the white variety Clairette to the reds. In their vineyard parcels with very old plantings, there are some co-planted white varieties like Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Clairette, which, therefore, co-ferment with the black grapes by default. Fermentation occurs in concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, followed by daily pump-overs. Michel no longer carries out punch downs, as she aims to infuse the wine without seeking too much extraction. The total time on skins is around 20 to 25 days, and the pressed juice matures for one year in old oak foudres. The red wines do not see any barrique or new oak. The elegant red Châteauneuf-du-Pape from 2021 shows well but does not match the expressiveness and complexity of the 2019 and 2022 vintages. That said, the outstanding 2020 surpasses all others. I appreciate the Vieux Donjon style for its traditional and savory characteristics, always maintaining balance and avoiding excess, even in bolder vintages like 2019. As for the white wines, the Michel team harvests Roussanne first, undergoing direct pressing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks. After around ten days, they pick Clairette, which is then added directly to the fermenting Roussanne juice, resulting in a co-fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is always blocked to preserve acidity. The aging of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape continues in stainless steel.
00
2021
2025 - 2036
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During my visit with Claire Michel, who co-owns and operates Vieux Donjon with her brother Francois, we focused on winemaking. The process for the reds usually involves a proportion of whole clusters for Grenache, depending on the vintage. In 2021, the siblings destemmed 90% of Grenache, whereas in 2020 and 2022, they incorporated about 50% whole clusters. In contrast, Syrah and Mourvèdre are typically fully destemmed. One interesting aspect of the winemaking practice here is the co-fermentation of all the different grape varieties, rather than vinifying them separately and blending later. In 2023, the estate even added a small amount of the white variety Clairette to the reds. In their vineyard parcels with very old plantings, there are some co-planted white varieties like Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Clairette, which, therefore, co-ferment with the black grapes by default. Fermentation occurs in concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, followed by daily pump-overs. Michel no longer carries out punch downs, as she aims to infuse the wine without seeking too much extraction. The total time on skins is around 20 to 25 days, and the pressed juice matures for one year in old oak foudres. The red wines do not see any barrique or new oak. The elegant red Châteauneuf-du-Pape from 2021 shows well but does not match the expressiveness and complexity of the 2019 and 2022 vintages. That said, the outstanding 2020 surpasses all others. I appreciate the Vieux Donjon style for its traditional and savory characteristics, always maintaining balance and avoiding excess, even in bolder vintages like 2019. As for the white wines, the Michel team harvests Roussanne first, undergoing direct pressing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks. After around ten days, they pick Clairette, which is then added directly to the fermenting Roussanne juice, resulting in a co-fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is always blocked to preserve acidity. The aging of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape continues in stainless steel.
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2020
2028 - 2040
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During my visit with Claire Michel, who co-owns and operates Vieux Donjon with her brother Francois, we focused on winemaking. The process for the reds usually involves a proportion of whole clusters for Grenache, depending on the vintage. In 2021, the siblings destemmed 90% of Grenache, whereas in 2020 and 2022, they incorporated about 50% whole clusters. In contrast, Syrah and Mourvèdre are typically fully destemmed. One interesting aspect of the winemaking practice here is the co-fermentation of all the different grape varieties, rather than vinifying them separately and blending later. In 2023, the estate even added a small amount of the white variety Clairette to the reds. In their vineyard parcels with very old plantings, there are some co-planted white varieties like Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Clairette, which, therefore, co-ferment with the black grapes by default. Fermentation occurs in concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, followed by daily pump-overs. Michel no longer carries out punch downs, as she aims to infuse the wine without seeking too much extraction. The total time on skins is around 20 to 25 days, and the pressed juice matures for one year in old oak foudres. The red wines do not see any barrique or new oak. The elegant red Châteauneuf-du-Pape from 2021 shows well but does not match the expressiveness and complexity of the 2019 and 2022 vintages. That said, the outstanding 2020 surpasses all others. I appreciate the Vieux Donjon style for its traditional and savory characteristics, always maintaining balance and avoiding excess, even in bolder vintages like 2019. As for the white wines, the Michel team harvests Roussanne first, undergoing direct pressing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks. After around ten days, they pick Clairette, which is then added directly to the fermenting Roussanne juice, resulting in a co-fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is always blocked to preserve acidity. The aging of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape continues in stainless steel.
00
2019
2029 - 2042
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During my visit with Claire Michel, who co-owns and operates Vieux Donjon with her brother Francois, we focused on winemaking. The process for the reds usually involves a proportion of whole clusters for Grenache, depending on the vintage. In 2021, the siblings destemmed 90% of Grenache, whereas in 2020 and 2022, they incorporated about 50% whole clusters. In contrast, Syrah and Mourvèdre are typically fully destemmed. One interesting aspect of the winemaking practice here is the co-fermentation of all the different grape varieties, rather than vinifying them separately and blending later. In 2023, the estate even added a small amount of the white variety Clairette to the reds. In their vineyard parcels with very old plantings, there are some co-planted white varieties like Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Clairette, which, therefore, co-ferment with the black grapes by default. Fermentation occurs in concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts, followed by daily pump-overs. Michel no longer carries out punch downs, as she aims to infuse the wine without seeking too much extraction. The total time on skins is around 20 to 25 days, and the pressed juice matures for one year in old oak foudres. The red wines do not see any barrique or new oak. The elegant red Châteauneuf-du-Pape from 2021 shows well but does not match the expressiveness and complexity of the 2019 and 2022 vintages. That said, the outstanding 2020 surpasses all others. I appreciate the Vieux Donjon style for its traditional and savory characteristics, always maintaining balance and avoiding excess, even in bolder vintages like 2019. As for the white wines, the Michel team harvests Roussanne first, undergoing direct pressing and fermentation in stainless steel tanks. After around ten days, they pick Clairette, which is then added directly to the fermenting Roussanne juice, resulting in a co-fermentation. Malolactic fermentation is always blocked to preserve acidity. The aging of the white Châteauneuf-du-Pape continues in stainless steel.
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2019
2026 - 2037
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For decades the small domaine Le Vieux Donjon has been one of the most consistently outstanding producers of classically wrought Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Michel family owns 18 hectares of vines in the appellation, with just one of them devoted to white grapes. A decent amount of red wine is made here each year, around 7,000 cases, given that this is one of the holdout estates to issue only one red and one white bottling. Lucien Michel put his wines on the map back in the 1970s. Today, his children, Claire Fabre and her brother, François Michel, are more than upholding the domaine’s reputation. Both the 2018 and 2019 bottlings deliver the goods, with the 2019, especially, a long-distance runner based on its balance.
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2018
2025 - 2035
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For decades the small domaine Le Vieux Donjon has been one of the most consistently outstanding producers of classically wrought Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The Michel family owns 18 hectares of vines in the appellation, with just one of them devoted to white grapes. A decent amount of red wine is made here each year, around 7,000 cases, given that this is one of the holdout estates to issue only one red and one white bottling. Lucien Michel put his wines on the map back in the 1970s. Today, his children, Claire Fabre and her brother, François Michel, are more than upholding the domaine’s reputation. Both the 2018 and 2019 bottlings deliver the goods, with the 2019, especially, a long-distance runner based on its balance.
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2017
2026 - 2036
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2016
2024 - 2034
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2015
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The brother and sister team of François and Claire Fabre have produced a superb 2015, which isn’t surprising as the character of the vintage, power married to vivacity, is a pretty good summation of the traditional house style here. While the 2015 here definitely shows the power of the vintage there’s also an alluring freshness to the wine that reminded me quite a bit of this domain’s 2010 bottling, while most wines from this hot year lean more toward the opulent 2009s. For readers with bottles of the 2000 and 2001 in their cellars I can attest that those two wines are showing very well right now, with room for further aging but, at least to my palate, they’re both at their peak now, with assertively perfumed bouquets and rounded, fully absorbed tannins.
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2014
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Claire Fabre told me that "a lot of green harvesting" was necessary in 2014 to make a concentrated wine, adding that "there's a depth and roundness to the tannins in '14 that will make them enjoyable while you wait for the '13s to unwind."
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2013
2019 - 2026
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Claire Fabre told me that "a lot of green harvesting" was necessary in 2014 to make a concentrated wine, adding that "there's a depth and roundness to the tannins in '14 that will make them enjoyable while you wait for the '13s to unwind."
00
2013
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2012
2018 - 2029
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2012
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Claire Michel describes the 2012 vintage as one that will provide "a lot of immediate appeal, with fresh fruit that might make people suspect that the wines must be drunk young," but she thinks that their balance will imbue them with surprising ageworthiness.Like a number of her colleagues she points to the overall success of the 1999s, "which lived in the shadow of the 1998s, especially, but which are now proving to be even better for aging than the '98s."I've heard rumblings among old- time Chateauneuf lovers that there's been too much of a turn to modernity here in recent years, and if by modernity one means cleanliness, then I suppose that the Michel family is guilty.Recent bottles of the 2008, 2006 and 2004 have displayed the kind of classic, garrigue-driven character (so does the 2011 here, in fact) that I would think lovers of old-school Chateauneuf would love.I wonder if those consumers are engaging in guilt by association owing to the estate's relationship with enologist Philippe Cambie, whose work is wildly misunderstood by many Rhone aficionados who believe that all of the wineries with which he works make a single style of wine--all evidence to the contrary.If the Vieux Donjon wines are cleaner today, they have lost none of their classic appeal.
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2011
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Claire Michel describes the 2012 vintage as one that will provide "a lot of immediate appeal, with fresh fruit that might make people suspect that the wines must be drunk young," but she thinks that their balance will imbue them with surprising ageworthiness.Like a number of her colleagues she points to the overall success of the 1999s, "which lived in the shadow of the 1998s, especially, but which are now proving to be even better for aging than the '98s."I've heard rumblings among old- time Chateauneuf lovers that there's been too much of a turn to modernity here in recent years, and if by modernity one means cleanliness, then I suppose that the Michel family is guilty.Recent bottles of the 2008, 2006 and 2004 have displayed the kind of classic, garrigue-driven character (so does the 2011 here, in fact) that I would think lovers of old-school Chateauneuf would love.I wonder if those consumers are engaging in guilt by association owing to the estate's relationship with enologist Philippe Cambie, whose work is wildly misunderstood by many Rhone aficionados who believe that all of the wineries with which he works make a single style of wine--all evidence to the contrary.If the Vieux Donjon wines are cleaner today, they have lost none of their classic appeal.
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2011
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"A vintage to drink now and over the next few years" is how Claire Michel described 2011."There's good depth because there was a lot of selection but there isn't really the structure that you need to cellar them," she added.The 2010, which is based on 75% grenache and made from a yield of only 22 hl/ha, "is a completely different story" she said.It deserves up to a full decade more age to be showing its best, she thinks, "and after that it will keep going for a really long time, probably like the 1978."The 1999 Vieux Donjon, which I was able to taste at the end of my visit here, is showing bright red fruit and an intense garrigue character, with fully resolved tannins and a long, spicy finish.I doubt that it will be heading over the cliff any time soon but I don't see a lot more upside, either.
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2010
2024 - 2036
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2009
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2008
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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2007
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1999
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1998
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Pazo Restaurant in Baltimore, MD.
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1998
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1997
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