2002 Le Pin
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2019 - 2035
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Le Pin is back on track following the difficult 2003 summer (the 2003 juice was sold off in bulk), having produced a rich, solid, chocolatey wine that Alexandre Thienpont says is in the style of the 2002 "but not as sophisticated as the 1998. It's just missing that extra dimension." "What is it missing?" I asked. "Cabernet franc," he replied. (The tiny Le Pin vineyard is 100% merlot.) A light saignee was carried out, but no other interventionist techniques were used. I tasted a representative blend of five lots that Thienpont combined in a glass beaker.
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"Le Pin has un simplicite abominable," in the words of Alexandre Thienpont. "All the work is done in the vines. The harvesters practically destem in the vines since they pick virtually berry by berry. The selection is done in the vines; there's no triage table in the winery." Thienpont volunteered that Le Pin's grave rouge soil really should be planted with cabernet; he noted that, paradoxically, even though Le Pin is all merlot, its best vintages have been those that favor cabernet (such as '94, '86 and '83). Serious coulure at the flowering in 2002 cut production nearly in half: there will be just 13 barrels of this scarce collectible.
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